7GS6SHEXMS02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Linkage on the cold-control mechanism in the air diffuser assembly was broken. It was necessary to access the diffuser assembly from both the refrigerator and freezer sides of the unit.
Re-connected the linkage between the diffuser and cold-control assembly; remounted the two combined assemblies . . . refrigerator working nicely now.

Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.

It was really easy to do. The water filter is in the front of the refrigerator. Less than 30 seconds. I am very happy with PartSelect. I bought parts for my dryer too. New lint filter, timer knob and door handle. Parts arrive immediately. I am sure I will be back to PartSelect.com.

Taped plastic cover to get it out of the way with duct tape - removed three screws on each side - removed retaining screw for each module - carefully disengaged module using small flat head screw driver being sure to release the plastic retainer and then reverse the process. Be sure new modules snap into place.

Biggest problem was initially figuring out what the problem was. Turning off the ice maker had no effect and it just kept making ice.

Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.

Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I
understood about the "push and release" tubing
connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release".
So to install the new valves, I simply by passed
the old inlet assembly and used the extra push
splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the
filter. All the other connections were easy push ins.
Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!

I took a 1/4 nut driver and removed the wire cover. I then used a small screwdriver to push up the clips the lock the unit in place. I then unplugged the unit and removed. I then used the same nut driver and removed the bottom plastic cover and installed it on the new icemaker. I then put the new unit part way back onto it slides, being carful to make sure the water fill spout clears the unit. Next I plugged in the wire harness and then slid the unit the rest of the way in until it locked in place. I then reinstalled the wire cover.
This unit was delivered at 1:30 and it was installed by 2

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

Unscrewed the old one (Half turn) and screwed in the new one.

The CAUSE of the LEAK were the O-rings on the water filter itself. My son followed others suggestions on how to detach the water hose from the filter housing, advise was helpful. After replacing the water filter housing, helpful, and inflow water tube the leak was still there. So my son then inspected the water filter and replaced. Water filter light was still green so we did not think it needed attention.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100.
Thanks

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

Review the video on parts select. Do this first!

The actual repair took less than 30 minutes, including pulling out the refrigerator, performing the repair, and replacing the refrigerator.

Remove the screws holding the cardboard backing to the bottom rear of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the pump in place. Remove the electrical connectors and the water hoses from the pump. I needed the wrench to disconnect and reconnect the main inlet hose. Hook everything back up (the sizes of hoses and connectors are different). Replace the cardboard backing. Done!!

I would use Parts Direct again.