7B06B Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I tilted the unit back enough to scew the new legs into the threaded holes.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

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Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I removed the 2 crisper drawers and the glass shelf directly above the Pantry Drawer. Removed the Pantry Drawer and Pantry Drawer cover so you have easy access to the Right-Hand End Cap. On the right-hand End Cap, there are 2 screws which hold the End Cap in place, use a 1/4 inch driver to unscrew the screws from the front of the cabinet on the End Cap and half-way in of the cabinet, leave the screws in their holes in the End Cap. Lift gently to get off a small plastic pin, and move the End Cap away from the Cabinet. You don't need to completely pull the End Cap out of the cabinet, it'll move more like a door opening. Place 2 washers on each screw and gently put the End Cap back into place, being careful NOT to jostle too much so the washers don't fall off the screws. You will need to gently lift the End Cap back in to place over the plastic pin. Hand-tighten the screws back into place with the 1/4 in driver. Remount the Pantry Drawer on the sliders. When you go to install the Pantry Drawer Cover, you will need to gently push on one of the pins to get the cover back into place. Put glass and crisper drawers back into place.

Test by gently pulling on the Pantry Drawer. If properly mounted, the pins will extend fully into the Cover and will keep it secure when opening the Pantry Drawer.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the screws that held the main ice bin and slid back the bin to leave space behind the auger to remove the broken ring. Replaced with new ring and replaced screws to hold ice bin back in place.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

Reattaching the kickplate clip was easy, but the tab that holds in place was broken. It would slide back when the kickplate was installed. I fashioned a replacement tab out of a piece of 3/32 aluminum bent into a U with the hammer. To hold it in place I drilled and tapped one hole and used a 6-32 machine screw.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.