79092209016 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.

Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.

I watched the video on how to do it

Unscrew the 2 screws at the back of the oven bottom pan in the range. Place new oven pan in and rescrew the 2 screws. I could not get the two screws screwed back in. Since the bottom pan cannot move from its position, I felt like the two screws were not necessary.

Easy watched on line video

Unplugged range; removed back cover; removed old oven probe. Installed new probe; replaced cover; connected power and turned on range - that simple. My only issue was probe was shipped in bubble rap and unit was slightly damaged (bent). Once straightened, the probe could be installed. Probe should have been shipped in sturdy cardboard cylinder or box. I called customer service, they were very nice, and noted my feedback on my account in case the unit fails prematurely.

NEED A QUARTER INCH SOCKET FOR THE BOLTS. REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND THEN YOU WILL SEE THE TWO ELECTRIC WIRES GOING TO THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT. DISCONNECT AND THEN GO TO THE FRONT OF OVEN AND REMOVE THE FOUR BOLTS THAT HOLD IN THE TOP ELEMENT. SIMPLY, VERY SLOWLY PULL THE ELEMENT FORWARD UNTILL IT CLEARS THE BACK AND YOUR GOOD TO GO. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE OVEN BEFORE YOU START!

I pulled the oven away from the wall, unplugged the cord, removed the back panel then removed the screw from the old sensor.

Pulled oven out, took the screws out of back plate cover plate with socket wrench, pulled connectors out through the back, removed the door, pushed the element rods through the two holes, connected the two wires, screwed the element in, put the hangars on for the element, put the back plate on and turned the broiler on, worked great, put the range door back on and has been working great. Great company, hope not to use them again, but good to know they are there with my part.
Gary H.

I was able to find the most common reason for my oven's symptom by searching online. I searched for the part I needed but was not confident that I would get the correct part until I looked on partselect.com. After verifying the part number with my owners manual and looking at the video on their website, I decided to order. PartSelect shipped the part as expected, and I was able to install it in less than 30 minutes. The only tool needed for installation was a nut driver. My oven is now working like new.

Many thanks to PartSelect for their comprehensive website and fine service.

I wanted the bracket for the oven heating element and received the bracket for the broiler.... part returned and now I am stumped about what my next move will be

Found out it was easier taking the door off on you tube. Other than that it was pretty easy.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.