79077512800 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Swapped out old top for new looks like a brand new stove!

remove belly pan ,pull draw out easy acsess remove screws and replace

Replaced the oven probe because a no heat problem. also had to replace the oven control. That was a bit expensive but still saved me hundreds not calling a serviceman. By the way, it works like new.....

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

We took off all of the bolts holding the burner assembly's in place . Then took the top of the s range off. Used a wrench to remove the old assembly and re-placed it with the new one. It took longer to get all of the top and under cover off then to put the new part in. Very good service from Part Select. MATT

changed the orfices with a 10mm socket and driver handle used an adjustable wrench to tighten the orfice in the bottom of the oven approximately 45 minutes we were using the range

Gas stove worked, as well as brolier, but oven did not turn on at all. Replacing the bake igniter part did the trick. It is a simple operation, 30 minutes tops normally. In my case the screw was originally installed a little crooked and had caused it to strip and wouldn't come out. As a result, I had to also remove the gas pipe that the igniter was attached to in order to forcibly remove the screw and detach the old bake igniter. This is what caused the extra time and difficulty.

Replaced the trim. Removed the handle and then the glass along with the old trim piece. Had to work at getting the old trim off as the rest had really wedged the glass in. Cleaned the glass, applied new 2 sided adhesive tape to hold the glass in place. Reinstalled the glass/trim and the door handle.

I followed the you tube www.partselect.com. Got door off--easy, and other parts off--easy, as you tube shows--I used the adj wrench to remove old screws--there are two--front one off--easy, the rear one was stripped at factory installation--so got it out, but broke it off in the process. So I had to drill out the part of the screw that remained, and then used a substitute screw (8-32x1/2) on re-assembly. Re-assembly went easy--note that the removal of electrical connection is a "pinch-squeeze" to pull off.

un bolted the 6 nut driver heads found probe wire un pluged it 1/4 turn from lock it was in and pull out replace slide in new probe 1/4 turn to lock it in place replace nut driver self tappers and test simple!!

Delivery was fast. Two screws to remove the old oven panel. Slipped in the new panel and tightened the screws with my fingers. Job completed. It was as easy as that.

removded 2 screws at rear of panel, moved panel toward rear of oven, lifted up and out. Slid in new panel in front groove then lowered onto oven floor and secured it with the 2 screws at rear of oven.

The Conversion Kit was throughall with extra fittings and good instructions. My problem was haveing to pay a lisence gas installer $65.00 an hour to do a safety & pressure test. Maybee future Conversion kits would include a cheap disposable pressure tester with hose, then it would be a complete done job by the owner.

I removed back cover and replaced the probe. The troubleshooting info indicated this is the problem 99% of the time. Guess what, it did not help! Further checks indicate that broil element may be out. Am going to resistance check and order if that is the problem.

I removed the two back screws, slid out the old panel, then fitted in the new panel (it fit perfectly) and replaced the screws. Five minutes, tops.