79061750106 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.

Unplugged the range. Removed the top section of the back of the stove to expose switches. Removed the knob, (pulls off exposing the 2 switch screws), unscrew & pull out from the back. The new switch was slightly bigger but the same manufacture and post letters & numbers. Transfer wires one-at-a-time from the old to the new switch. Mount the new switch back in place, put the screws in and the knob on. I plugged in the stove for a quick test, HA....works perfectly. Unplugged again and put the back panel back on, plugged back in and pushed the stove back in it's hole. BEFORE; the old switch when turned down would come back on BUT stay on high, a lot of boil overs. FINALLY: when turned on, it would NOT turn off, a real fire hazard. Thank you for having an original replacement part.

1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.

Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.

followed the video provided on line which was very helpful..

I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass
The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.

Unplugged the element and the melted on pot. Plugged in the new element. I thought I might need a whole new cooktop but a new element was very easy to find online.

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

Pulled old burner out, pushed new one in. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! Heats very quickly, now.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

The drawer under the oven had been aggravating me for some time. It was titled and did not close right. Finally, I took it out to see what the problem was and noticed that the glides were broken. I googled the model no. of the stove (figuring I would have no luck) and to my great relief was directed to this EXCELLENT site. I ordered the new drawer glides within minutes and they were literally delivered the next day. Snapped right in, fixed, happy!! It's times like this when I can't figure out how we all lived without the internet!

I unplugged the damaged unit and plugged in the new one.

Remove heating coils raise stove top unsrew terminal blocks cut wires assemble terminals strip wires twist wires together install wire nuts apply heat shrink lower stove top plug in stove repair complete.Thanks.

Simple: Snip old terminal block off. Strip wires. Connect new Terminal block using twist-on wire caps (provided in kit). Mount to stove top with existing screw. TIP: Make sure you insert the wire lead into the terminal block the right way (not upside down). Otherwise burner element will not insert into terminal block properly.

1. First I pulled out the heating element from stovetop and removed old pan (no screws) very simple. 2. Put new pan in and inserted the heating element back in place.