7430A Norge Dryer - Instructions

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

Looked up dryer by serial number on the internet. Watched the video on the website very easy installation. Ordered the part it came in within 2 days. Opened the top of the dryer with a 10 in one tool (like a putty knife). Took out the out defective parts by unscrewing the thermostat took wires off the old part and put them on the new part not to confuse wires. Did the same with the heater element installed the new parts. Very simple. If I had to call a repair person it would have cost 3 times as much as the part alone.

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

It was easy. Just removed the old seal and plugged the new one in place. Took less than 3 minutes

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

Easy repair and I am not the handyman type. Unplug the unit. Lift the top. Remove 2 wires from temperature sensor and remove single screw to lift out the plate the sensor is mounted to(Easier to change the sensor out this way). Remove 2 wires from heating element and then remove single screw. Lift out heating element and replace with new one. Screw back in and reattach 2 wires. Remove 2 screws on the plate for the temeperature sensor and replace with the new sensor. Once 2 screws are back in the plate holding the sensor, screw back in with single screw and attach 2 wires. I called a tech and they wanted $125 just to look at the unit. When I read other reviews of how easy this repair was, I thought it was worth a try. Definitely saved us a bunch of money and time.

1.Removed retaining clips,washers,spacer,and cylinder rollers
2.Removed and replaced support assembly
3.Installed spacer
4.Installed cylinder roller assembly
5.Installed washers and retaining clips
This is my second time ordering parts from PartSelect and I am amazed how fast I recieve my orders, which minimizes the downtime of an appliance that's frequently used.

I followed the "How to" video on your web site. Most importantly, I cleaned the entire filter area which probably caused the problem as your instructions recommended. I will do that annually going forward. I would recommend your service to anyone.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

Open the top of the dryer, thermostat can be plainly seen. this one was obviously fried, made it easy to determine cause of problem. remove old thermostat, pins pull off posts, using socket take off nuts (hang on to the nuts), put the new on. Fixed.

I watched the video tape

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

This is the second time that this has happened with my dryer. The first time I replaced the thermostat and fuse, and it worked for a few years. This time I replaced the element and thermostat at first. Still nothing, then got the fuse; and walla just like new. Of course I lost a screw somewhere down at the bottom of the dryer, so there is only one holding the thermostat in place. Also I took off the front and cleaned out the lint traps; both times it was loaded with crap. Probably why it stopped in the first place.