7338B Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

lacked instructions. Internet yielded a simple paragraph. Scored real bonus when we discovered the lint build up past the internal filter was approaching catastropic level. Replaced the exhaust tube (plastic) with rigid metal and resolved to disassemble and clean dryer on 2 year cycle in future. Kit just isn't complete without detailed instructions. Parts were complete and sufficient. Local codes have eliminated the plactic exhaust tube. Recommend that all old installs refit to rigid or semirigid before the fire happens!

Opened the top, removed the 4 screws that held the front top the cabinet, took the front off, went after the dust with the vacuum cleaner, lifted the drum, installed the belt, put the front back on, and put the belt over the idler. Most of the time was in the cleaning.

replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

/removed the lint screen & tossed in the trash, removed one screw from each side of the frame with a screw driver. Placed the New frame in place
& secured it with the screws that I removed from the old frame, placed the screen in place & that was all there was to it. The total amount of time to remove the old & replace with the new probably took 10-15 min. @ the most. I am so happy to have found the part & was able to replace it. You all are wonderful. Received it in 3 days, WOW!!

First of all, I've purchased a belt from local service center that cost me more than $21 (local tax is 8.5%). But, I can not find the idel pulley assembly so I searched on the Internet and ordered from PartSelect.com.

Surprisedly, my order came just one day - they must cross-ship from local distribution that it's even faster than to get those in local stores (driving .. and hope they have what I want ..).

I've replaced the belt 2 days ago - it's easy with 4 screws removed to pull out the front door. The back panel is opened with 2 screws remove, and very easy to replace the pulley.

It's a heavy duty gas dryer made in 1989 and this is the third time I changed the belt and the first time to change a new pulley. I would recommend to change the idle pulley because I may not need to change the belt if I have had replaced it last time. A broken or not functional idle pulley may damage the belt in a short time.

Appliance such as gas dryer like mine will last forever with replaceable belt and pulley. I'm really happy to see a working dryer (almost 20 years old) and my wife is asking a small component for her washer .. that I think I can easily fix that too .. with the help of PartSelect search.

Hope this will help.

John

Lifted broken screen out and replaced it with a new one. Extremely simple.

Open the back plate. Broken pulley was already out of place. Put the spring on the pulley and placed it. It took me less than 10 min

uncrew old, take out, put new in, screw in place.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer

Followed the video

Watched Video Provided. Very Simple Repair. Asked my lovely wife to hold drum in place while replacing drive belt. She gladly complied and is back doing what she seems to love most. And no, I'm not kidding. Our washer and dryer seem to run 24/7/365. I've completed various repairs on both appliances over the last couple of years and saved 100's of dollars thanks to this site .

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.