66561624100 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.

This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle.
I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

the burn thru was probably because stirrer motor was not turning, Unplug the microwave .freed the motor up bu manually turning. temporary fix. The cover is held up with small push pin clips. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver or other flat tool. Scrape offf the old silicone. There are two covers in the Kit. you just need 1. Remove the old clips for the roof of the microwave, put a bead of silicone on the new cover where the old was and secure the new cover with the push pins into the clips .

A phillips head screwdriver and a bottle of windex to clean the parts were all that it took to repair a very expensive microwave whose door and vent had cracked due to age. Half of the time in the job was spent cleaning the old parts before reassembly. There were five screws total. This isn't rocket surgery. :-)

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

Put s pot under were you take the screw out.If you drop it you can get it easy

It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.

Remove 6 screws, remove glass and black molding. Then I placed those items in the new frame. Placed the frame on the Hinges and replaced the screws. It was that easy.

Backed out the screws, removed cracked grille. Installed new perfectly matched grille, screw down. Done.

Overall a very easy fit, the key for me was being gentle with the glass if your door has an extreme crack (as mine did). If it does, the glass can easily fall out of the frame. The plastic clips that hold the glass to the frame are also quite fragile, so just gently work the glass into the clips without forcing it.

Took me about 20 minutes.

1) Remove 3 screws from side of door
2) Remove 2 screws from bottom of door
3) Carefully slide outer frame of of door.

If crack is extreme (as mine was), be careful that the glass does not completely fall out when removing frame

4) I used a putty knife to carefully pry up the top part of the frame as it has clips that fit into slots on the door.
4)Once frame is removed use screwdriver to remove door handle
5) Remove glass from frame and replace with new one. Use the putty knife to gently push the clips onto to it as the plastic clips that hold the glass look easily breakable
6) Re-attach door handle
7) Slide new frame back onto door, push top clips down into door top and replace all screws

ordered supplies on line (awesome!) Took apart old door added new frame. It was a snap!

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.