6654493392 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges

took out the old heating elments and cleaned the bottom & top of oven with out the elments in, which made it alot easier then put new ones in. They were very easy to do, just make sure you watch how you took old ones out and don't loose the screws cause you use them to put new ones in.

SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.

change light bulbs

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Open oven door. Still power to the wall, but all Knobs in "OFF" position. two phillips screws, pull old element back, and disconnect both leads. Put the leads on the new element and reinsert with two mounting screws. Simple.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).

1. Turn off oven.
2. Switch off circuit braker to oven.
3. Remove two screws holding element.
4. Pull element out to expose connectors.
5. Disconnect connectors and remove element.
6. Reverse procedure for installation.

grandson removed the two screws holding in the burned out unit and removed the two wires, installed them into the new unit and put the prongs into place. very easy and certainly very economic. delivery was quick and postage was reasonable. Thank you.

Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

I had previously partially removed the element and tested with multi-meter to determine that it was not working (open circuit). Repair procedure follows:

Turned off Power
Removed 2 retaining screws
Pulled element out part way
Removed 2 spade connectors supplying power
Replaced element w/new element
Reversed procedure
Tested Oven; worked fine.

Did require removing almost every screw in the oven door. Labeled the screws as they were removed. Not difficult, just like solving a puzzle.