6654433452 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the two Philips head screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Pulled off the two wire terminals from the spades on the back of the element. Pushed the two wire terminals onto the spades on the back of the new element. Noticed that one was not tight, so disconnected, squeezed down the wire terminal, and reconnected. Inserted the two screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Element works fine.

First, shut off the power at the breaker panel. Next, I simply unscrewed the screws holding in each element, disconnected the leads, reconnected the leads to the new elements, positioned each element & reinserted the screws. A suggestion: Before loosening the screws, a light shot of PB Blaster or similar might help.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, Removed the old element and installed the new one

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Two screws held the element in place, removed the screws and pulled the piece out.
Back of piece has two wires attached, unplug them then attach the new element and replace the two screws to remount.
First make sure the breaker to the range is turned off before starting the repair.

Removed 2 screws holding element in place. Pulled out element to access two wires. Slid off the old element connectors. Placed new element in place and attached the two wires. Pushed it back into place and replaced the screws. Done in 10 min max.

simply turned off power. took old element out, held in by two screws. pulled out far enough to take off wires. removed and replaced with new element. that was a purfect fit. Works great.

Removed 3 screws on bottom edge of door,2 screws on top edge of door. Outside of door comes off. Then use a 1/4 nut driver and remove glass window supports until you get to the inner door glass. Reverse to assemble. Gasket was okey.

Take the time to pull off the door from the hinge; which is to simply pull it up to release with the door open approx. 4 inches. Have a Philips head screwdriver and a nut driver set available. Keep the screws grouped and the take it apart in the logical sequence. It took about 30 minutes total to complete the job. But then again, it was a woman who did it!

change light bulbs

Open oven door. Still power to the wall, but all Knobs in "OFF" position. two phillips screws, pull old element back, and disconnect both leads. Put the leads on the new element and reinsert with two mounting screws. Simple.

REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3

Lots of screws but if you have the proper sized nut driver it goes quite easily. Take time to see how the inner glass is mounted to the oven door. There are also screws on the bottom of the door that you need to remove to get the inner panel off. The door itself can stay on the hinges

The microwave was a built in so I needed to remove five screws from the metal band around the frame, and two screws that attached the control panel to the microwave. After that I lifted the control panel up and out. The replacement of the button was easy once I released the clip on the defective one with a screw driver. The old springs were still good, and the new button slid right in. All works fine. The control panel also controls the built-in oven, so if I could not fix it it would have meant I had to buy a whole new combo oven Microwave. I was told it could not be repaired. Thanks to you I proved them wrong, and saved a couple thousand in the process. Not a bad investment for less than $10.