66514502N020 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.

Turned off water to dishwasher and disconnected hot water and drain hoses. Removed to side screws and kick panel and pulled dishwasher from under counter. Removed old drain hose and fed the new one over to the drain. Reconnected the hot water and new drain hose. Pushed dishwasher under cabinet and screwed to cabinets. Ran the dishwasher and checked for leaks. Replaced kick panel.

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

I simply disconnected the power line to the dishwasher and pulled it out enough to install the mounting brackets. The installation manual that came with the dishwasher described how to install the brackets and I simply followed directions.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

Installed brackets

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Using a Torx screwdriver, I removed the fasteners holding the control panel/latch section of the door on the dishwasher. I tested the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Just two terminals, one being power in, the other power out. The part had what I have heard call a "high resistance open". In other words, the power was not getting from "A" to "B". Power in - not out. After cutting power to the unit, I removed the part (just pull it out of the retaining clip and pull the terminals from the part). After receiving the part...by the way, really fast delivery...I reconnected the part (it doesn't matter which wire goes where), pushed the part back into the retaining clip, replaced and fastened the control panel, then restored power to the unit. Runs like new.

it was just a matter of snapping the new assembly in place.

put new one in