66513213K902 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Disassembled inside bottom section of dishwasher found broken chopper part,removed and replaced with new part,only hard part was holding spring compressed when putting in new part,needed needlenose and thin screwdriver.Thank You for your great website and help

remove old seal, clean and dry the gap where the new seal will be installed. Apply adhessive, place new seal, then let dry for 24 hrs.

The hardest part was getting the seal, we first ordered from a sears parts store locally. They also told me that everything was included to install it, but they did not include the adhesive, they lost the order via ups and never notified me. I finally called them and they made me go back to the parts store for a refund. I then ordered on parts select and they had it in my hands in 3 days.

I first thought I may have a defective water feed tube that runs from the bottom of the dishwasher tub aolng the back to the top. This is what the top rack sprayer plugs into to get water.

This was easily replaced by uncliping the feed tube by the two clips, one on the top of the tub and one in the back. You then give the feed tube a twist clockwise about 45 degree (relative to the bottom of the dishwasher). This will remove the feed tube and bottom sprayer.

However, this didn't fix the issue.

I then replaced the pump/motor. This is done by uninstalling the dishwasher and flipping it onto it's back so you can look at the bottom of the dishwasher. There is an electrial connector on the right side that needs to be disconnected. The motor is help on by one bolt in the back and a socket wrench with extender will be needed to get to it. Once the bolt is removed, and motor needs to be twisted about 45 degress so it feels "loose". Then you need to pull straight down and the motor will come off.

Just reverse all the steps to install the new motor.

But that didn't fix the issue either.

Come to find out, the problem I was having was the grinder screen was so gummed up with paper, the grinder broke and water was not getting through the screen. Here is how you replace the grider (which was the true fix to the problem).

- Remove the feed tube like I listed above. You DO NOT need to uninstall your dishwasher.

- Use a Torx driver to remove the three visible bolts on the bottom of the washer tub.

- Pull up on the plastic piece you just removed the screws to remove it.

- Use a smaller sized Torx driver to remove the one screw from the Grinder plate. Once you have the screw off, use a pair of pliers to pull straight up on post sticking straight up on the grinder housing.

-You can now see the grinder. Pull the screen and grinder assembly out. If it is still intact, just clean it and replace it back into its groove. If it is in pieces, it is destroyed and buy a new one.

- Reverse all the steps to put the dish washer back together.

This screen that fits into the groove was jammed up with paper and was causing my my issues. Once I placed this the macine worked great.

Each Molded one-piece plastic upper dishrack wheel mount includes a tiny plastic spring clip which hold the mount in place on the upper dish washer rack.
These clips become dry and britle over time and snap off.
Because they are molded in the wheel mount itself you have to replace the entire wheel mount assembly

The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

the parts only took a few days to arrive, and it took me about 2 minutes to install them-no tools were required. i took out the end plugs from the slider bars, slipped out the old broken wheel parts, snapped on the new ones, slid the upper rack into the slider assembly, popped the end plugs back into place and VOILA!!

aside from the expense of the parts- much better to go this route rather than hire a repair guy to do it!!

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Before starting the repair, I turned off electrical power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker.

Instructions for removing the door cover panel were included in my dishwasher installation manual. The instructions were in a section for adding a custom door panel. For my dishwasher, this only required removing six screws using a Torx (star shaped) driver, size T15. I found it possible to support the door cover by myself with a knee under one side and one hand wrapped around the opposite side, but another person would be helpful.

The electrical connector to the dispenser has a small tab to lock it in place. I gently pried the tab back a *little* and pulled out the connector.

There are six screws holding the dispenser in place. In this case, they were 5mm hex head screws. The screws hold a metal bracket in place and a vinyl flap is sandwiched between the bracket and the inner door panel. The vinyl flap has three holes, with two of the screws passing through the left and right holes, and the middle hold goes over a plastic tab on the dispenser.

After removing the bracket and vinyl flap, I found that there were two metal tabs holding the dispenser in place. These tabs are part of the door sheet metal. Gently prying them back a *little* released the dispenser (which would have fallen out if I hadn’t kept a hand on it).

I pushed the new dispenser through the opening until it clicked into place with the metal door tabs holding it. Then I put the vinyl flap in place with the middle hole over the plastic tab on top of the dispenser, and put the metal bracket over that and attached with the hex head screws.

Next, I reconnected the electrical wire to the dispenser, installed the door cover panel, turned on power at the circuit breaker, and tried a wash cycle. The new dispenser works great!

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

Pull the dishwasher out, unscrew the old wheel assemblies and screw in the new ones, that easy, anyone could fix this problem, it is a poor deisng though, the inside of my dishwasher is stainless and the only thing to go bad are the plastic parts

We replaced all four. You unclip the two front parts on the top drawer to pull it all the way out of the dishwasher. Unsnap the old mounts and clip the new ones on. Slide the top drawer rack back in and replace the two front clips.

This was truly an easy repair!

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

Took stop off end of track by smooshing spreader things together with butter knife, so they would fit through holes.
Maneuvered wheel on track and clip on rack. Put the stop back on.