63390479 General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.

I removed 2 screws to remove the top control panel the 5 sheet metal screws to remove the back of panel to expose to timer control switch unpluging the power leads to replace the switch' the repair saved me about $ 400.00. My wife had me looking at replacing the Dryer.

Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.

removed remaining handle pieces and simply snapped the new part in place. very simple,very easy.

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

Snap off and then snap New one on.

I followed the YouTube video and it gave me step by step instructions however I really needed to replace my dryer slides to fix the problem.

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

Removed two screws, lifted the top, removed two more screws and tilted the front panel. The worn parts were accessible, and I simply placed the new parts in. It worked. A little trouble placing the top back in the slots, but a fist whack did the job.

I bought the Heating Element and Housing together so that I would not have to stretch and run the coils and to save time!
1. I removed the two screws that hold the top down by opening the dryer door and removing the two screws at the top of the door opening. Then I pulled the top off.
2. Then I removed the two screws on the top inside of the dryer on the left right and took the front off.
3. Next I spread the dryer open a little and pulled the drum out while pushing the belt off the back of the drum.
4. Then I removed the screws to the sensors and removed them from the housing.
5. Then I removed the four screws holding the heating element housing to the back of the dryer and took it out and put in the new peace.
6. Do everything in reverse when putting the dryer back together.

Removed the top, four screws under the front inside the open door. Then the removed the front, two screws inside at top by drum and two screws on bottom. Then pulled out the drum, from there I was able to get to the bearing that was bad. Mine was a older model than the instructions showed that came with my repair parts but it was colse enough to get the job done. Your website is AWESOME!!! The entire experience was wonderful and made my repair as painless as possible. I have already recomended it to my friends, keep up the great work.