62942865 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

Your site helped me determine the problem. You included a video of how to do the repair. The replacement of the parts went just as expected. The parts came quickly and were the correct parts. I could not have asked for a better experience. (I replaced two switches because the knob was loose on the othe one).. Thanks.

Was easy cut the wires of as told to do wire nut the ends together and put back together and tested and worked great. Done

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Shut off breaker, removed the top by unscrewing the retaining screws and removing all knobs and grommets. Removed control from top panel by unscrewing, removed 5 wires and placed on new control. I then remounted the control, placed the top in its well, fastened. Replaced the retaining screws in the hold down strip and replaced grommets and knobs. Returned power to panel by turning the breaker on and tested. Used later that evening to grill 2 panini.

Remove heat coils, take body of coil inserts out, remove screws from body, cut old receptacle out, tie new recptacle wires to the old piece of left over wires using wire nuts, and reassemble body, insert heating coils and test.

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

easy, drop in

Wife installed them, they just snap into place on the Rock Grate.

took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type this but i am slow at typing

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.