5TX62E9ST0WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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WOULD NOT START/ stopped in the middle of cycle
Ordered parts and installed with YOUTUBE video.
Model A little different than showed online, There was a Metal protector over the Door switch that need to be taken off before switch could be located.
After detachment of dryer door, easily pushed the seal to one side to dislocate the metal protector.
Would of took 30 minutes to complete if had not been for the Metal protector they added to cover the switch.
Model A little different than showed online, There was a Metal protector over the Door switch that need to be taken off before switch could be located.
After detachment of dryer door, easily pushed the seal to one side to dislocate the metal protector.
Would of took 30 minutes to complete if had not been for the Metal protector they added to cover the switch.
Parts Used:
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Lisa from YOAKUM, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people
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Timer stripped dryer wouldn't start
I unplugged the dryer from the wall. I took the back off which was simple then I took pictures of all wires connected to timer switch and then I disconnected the switch and looking at my pictures got the wires connected to the new timer. Put it all back together plugged it back in and was back in business. I'm a 37 year old female massage therapist and this was my business dryer I was fixing.
Parts Used:
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Jena from BARDSTOWN, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Noisey squeaking noise.
Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.
Parts Used:
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Lewis from WESTFIELD, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people
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Dryer's drum doesn't run
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ruoli from Germantown, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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the part where the knob went that part broke
pulled off the existing wires and made sure that they went back on the new one in the same place. then took off the existing screws. then took out old timer. replaced the wires on the right connections on the new timer then put the timer back in its position and tested it. the dryer turned on.
Parts Used:
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Jack from MEMPHIS, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
3 of 3 people
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Dryer bulb burned out
Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.
Parts Used:
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Mary from NEW BRITAIN, CT
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people
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The dryer drum wasn't spinning, but I could hear the motor and feel the heat from the heating element.
UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.
The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
Parts Used:
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David from LAWRENCEVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
Parts Used:
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Darin from MEDINA, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Old timer froze, wouldn’t advance
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Ann from JASPER, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 4 people
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The dryer was making a lot of noise and clothing would get stuck along the drum
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST!!!
1. Open the dryer door and unscrew two screws connecting to the the top of the dryer.
2. Lift the dryer top and then pull the front of the dryer away from the frame (it should be a lift and pull motion)
3. Disconnect the power cord that runs to the dryer light
4. Unscrew the bearing top from the dryer front and pop the old bearing top assembly out
5. Insert the new bearing top assembly and reverse steps 1-4 to finish the install.
I recommend that while you have the dyer opened, you take the time to clean out any dust and lint from the interior.
1. Open the dryer door and unscrew two screws connecting to the the top of the dryer.
2. Lift the dryer top and then pull the front of the dryer away from the frame (it should be a lift and pull motion)
3. Disconnect the power cord that runs to the dryer light
4. Unscrew the bearing top from the dryer front and pop the old bearing top assembly out
5. Insert the new bearing top assembly and reverse steps 1-4 to finish the install.
I recommend that while you have the dyer opened, you take the time to clean out any dust and lint from the interior.
Parts Used:
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Lauren from WESTLAKE, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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belt broke
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joseph a from VALLEY STREAM, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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no heat from dryer
used you tube and with your info. actually took apart dryer replaced part & reassemble
Parts Used:
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Susan from LEVITTOWN, PA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 8 people
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Dryer belt was broken
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
Parts Used:
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Alvino from newtown, CT
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 8 people
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When the door is closed the dryer didn't work
Easy watch YouTube and open door placed screwdriver under door switch pry lightly and switch will pop out unplug wire connectors and replace on new switch reinsert switch should be done
Parts Used:
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Cary from SILVER SPGS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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WAITING ON PART
Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.
Parts Used:
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MARTIN from MOUNTAIN VIEW, WY
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
2 of 2 people
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