59678533801 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

With 2 babies and a chaotic household, i failed to double-check the measurements before I ordered the part. No fault of partselect, just user error ;-) I had to return the part bc i ordered the wrong size. Lesson learned, take my time and make sure it's done right the first time. The part fit in perfectly.
I used the search feature on the left side of the website to find the part, since the deli drawer wasn't in the parts diagrams given. The second time, customer service helped me find the part since the correct part wasn't on the website initially.
The deli drawer for this model is in the perfect place to have something dropped on it time and time again. I'm surprised you don't get more requests for this part to be replaced. It's bad design for Maytag to make it out of thin plastic.
Anyway, thanks so much for your patience in dealing with this frenzied mom! :-)

Just emptied the glass shelf. Lifted it and installed new part. Easy Easy

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

It was great! Took my husband less then 5 minutes to fix. Your delivery time is excellent. This is the second time I order from you and would do so again if the need arises. Thank you so much. Don't be afraid people go ahead and order.

Took the shelf glass out, pulled drawer out, put lid on put shelf back together. Everything fit and works well.

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

No tools needed. Snapped right into place, easy as could be.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Went to You Tube - found how to change out - the only problem I had was programming the new circuit board. Went to Maytag site and found out how to reprogram in a step by step instruction and it worked.

Just plugged it in

Removed the shelf below the cover to allow plenty of room to work spread apart the old cover at the pivot point toward the back installed the new one in reverse order

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.