Models > 59661279101

59661279101 Amana Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the 59661279101

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
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(26)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$8.82
  In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
Replacement Ice Maker
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(21)
PartSelect #: PS2121513
Manufacturer #: D7824706Q
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover, shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Those must be ordered separately, or you can use the existing parts.
$159.98
  In Stock
Freezer Door Handle – Part Number: WP67005140
Freezer Door Handle
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(14)
PartSelect #: PS11743615
Manufacturer #: WP67005140
Screws NOT included.
$97.05
  In Stock
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WP10442411
Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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(6)
PartSelect #: PS11738231
Manufacturer #: WP10442411
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat itself is a little over an inch long whi...
$51.69
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(22)
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$33.55
  In Stock
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
Run Capacitor
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11743364
Manufacturer #: WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
$74.67
  In Stock
Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: R0131577
Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz
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(8)
PartSelect #: PS2167006
Manufacturer #: R0131577
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
$53.84
  In Stock
Freezer Door Gasket – Part Number: WP12550116Q
Freezer Door Gasket
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS11738527
Manufacturer #: WP12550116Q
This freezer door gasket is white and made of rubber. It measures approximately 23-3/4 inches wide by thirty-one and a half inches long.
$130.09
  In Stock
Freezer Door Handle – Part Number: 67005125
Freezer Door Handle
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS1844508
Manufacturer #: 67005125
This handle does not come with mounting screws.
$92.25
  In Stock
Water Fill Cup and Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
Water Fill Cup and Bearing
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS11743318
Manufacturer #: WP628356
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
$47.21
  In Stock
Overload Relay Combination – Part Number: WP12555902
Overload Relay Combination
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS11738533
Manufacturer #: WP12555902
This part is both the start relay and the overload. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against ...
$102.22
  In Stock
Crisper Drawer Cover Support Post – Part Number: 10461901
Crisper Drawer Cover Support Post
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS1564421
Manufacturer #: 10461901
This part helps support the crisper drawer lid.
$43.26
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for 59661279101

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Common Symptoms of the 59661279101

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Ice maker not making ice
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Leaking
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Will Not Start
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Door Sweating
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Noisy
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Frost buildup
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Clicking sound
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Not dispensing water
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
786 of 851 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this one. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
Parts Used:
Replacement Ice Maker
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
263 of 347 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer door gasket needed replacing
Unplug refrigerator. Open freezer door. Lift the old gasket from the edge closest to the center of the door to expose the hex-head screws. Get a nut driver the appropriate size (1/4" if I remember) and loosen, but do not remove all of the screws. Once loosened, the old gasket can be removed. Slip the new gasket in just like the old one was. Lift the edges closest to the center of the door and tighten the screws. Test the fit of the new gasket by closing the door and sighting carefully down each of the four seal lines. Typically there will be spots where there are gaps, that is, the gasket is not "pulled out" enough to contact the refrigerator body. This is due to kinks that occur to the gasket during shipping. A paper that comes with the gasket notes the effect and recommends using a hair dryer to remove the kinks. Although the recommendation is to use the dryer BEFORE putting the gasket on, I used the dryer after, when I could see exactly where the gaps were. After noting the spots, open the door and with the dryer on HIGH setting, wave the hot air stream back and forth for a minute or two on each spot. Pull each spot out by hand with the hot air off and if/when the gasket is cool enough to touch but still warm. Close the door, inspect and repeat the process if necessary. I was able to achieve a good seal all the way around this way.
Parts Used:
Freezer Door Gasket
  • Jeffrey from Palo Alto, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
136 of 151 people found this instruction helpful.
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