59650392001 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First took the shelving unit and deli drawer out. Then removed the screws that were still attached. Took off the broken frame and replaced with the new frame. Put the screws back and put the unit back in the refrigerator.

I replaced the defrost timer, and then the defrost thermostat. I diagnosed these two items because it would get cold/freeze great for about 12-24 hours and then would start to warm back up. I pulled the cover off that covers the evaporator coil and found it to be frosted up. This told me that the defrost timer probably wasn't working properly. Decided to replace the defrost thermostat while I was in there as a precaution. It was much much cheaper than having to replace a side by side!!

First I removed the two screws that hold the timer cover in blace, then I removed the the two screws that hold the timer onto the cover. I was then able to unplug the timer, and reverced the process to re-assemble the timer. Unfortunately.....replacing the timer, did not solve the problem. My refridgerator still freezes up every other day or so. It will eventually thaw, and work for a few days, but then freezes up again.

The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.

This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available.
The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.

removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self

Reassembled auger assembly to new ice bucket with new screws. Fairly simple and straight forward.

Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.

Remove two screws from top door hinge.
Remove door from unit
Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw
Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw
Reinstall door and top hinge screws.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Remove 1 screw under ice maker. Gently pull downwards to unhook ice maker. Disconnected 4 pin wire connector. Remove and set aside the cover and wire loop you will need on new ice maker. Reverse the steps to install new maker. Once new ice maker is installed you will have to wait 2-4 hours for ice. There is a thermostat that will need to reach 10 degrees F to operate.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

0. Tools required: small Phillips screw driver and a normal length 3/16th inch Nut Driver. Some duct tape would be handy as well - for securing the wiring housing out of the way.

1. Unplug the refrigerator or trip the controlling circuit breaker to remove the possibility of an unpleasant surprises such as electrical shock, electrical arc, further damage to the refrigerator, burns to yourself, or death.

3. Remove the two small Philips-head screws located on the under side of the bezel surrounding the ice and water dispenser.

3. Carefully lift, pull, and remove the bezel.

4. Note the locations and relative positions of all the components behind the bezel. A digital photograph (or three) from various angles for future reference when reassembling the dispenser would be a good idea - if a camera is available.

3. Remove the two screws that hold the plastic housing and metal shroud containing wiring and switches. Tape the shroud and housing together and tie or tape it out of the way. If you ignored step #1, make sure you tape both the plastic tray and the metal shroud together as they were installed so that you cover any exposed wires or connectors inside the plastic housing. All the switches will still be "hot" and can cause the dispensers to activate at unexpected and mostly inconvenient times.

4. Slip the ice door damper spring (wire loop) off the ice door mechanism. Do not abruptly push or pull on the damper spring loop when it is disconnected from the door mechanism - you may damage it.

5. Remove the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the water dispenser activator; the two screws that hold the retaining tabs in place for the ice dispenser activator; and the two screws that hold the spring-loaded ice door-closing mechanism in place. That is a total of six screws: four retaining tab screws for the activators and the two screws retaining the spring-loaded ice door mechanism.

6. Slip the water dispenser activator arm down, off the water feed tube, and put it aside.

7. Remove the ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as a unit and note how it is fitted together. Then remove and put aside the ice door and closing mechanism. Save the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism for reinstallation with the new dispenser

8. Reinstall the new water dispenser activator arm over the water feed tube and reinstall the metal tabs and tab retaining screws.

9. Assemble the new ice dispenser arm and the existing spring-loaded ice door- closing mechanism as you noted it to be during the disassembly process.

10. Reinstall the new ice dispenser activator arm and spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism. It seemed easier to secure the dispenser activator with the screws and metal tabs first and then the spring-loaded ice door closing mechanism.

11. Reinstall the plastic housing containing the electrical components and the metal shroud and secure in place with the two screws that were removed in Step #3. Restore electrical power to the system.

12. Test both the water dispenser and ice dispenser for proper operation. If both dispensers appear to operate correctly, reinstall the bezel with the two small Philips screws and you are done.

13. If either of the dispensers does not work, you will have to trouble shoot the problem. A common problem seemed to be that the activator arm was not making contact with the switch in the plastic housing. You will have to go back and ensure that all the components are properly installed - there are no other adjustments and simply pushing harder on the actuator may break the newly installed part.

All the screws and components are easily accessible, so I think that the entire repair process should take about 30 to 45 minutes unless Step 12 fails and Step 13 is required. Then it may take a couple hours to figure out and get things set right.