58635 Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Read on Internet that a warm freezer was caused by frost build up on the coils. Took of coil cover in freezer section and verified this. There were two possible sources, a bad Bimetal Defrost thermostat or a defrost timer. I did notice that the defrost thermostat top was bulging and suspected it was the problem. However, since my food was rotting, I did not have time to order the defrost timer if the thermostat was not the issue... so I purchased both parts. The only issue I had with installing is that the defrost thermostat wires ended up going through a tight sealed opening in that back wall with cooling lines. At the end of the new defrost thermostat there was a connector that would not fit through the opening. After taking off the back cover panels, I discovered that the wires were just hanging out the back unconnected with a label of "Factory Test". So, I just cut them and pulled the wire out. Then I did not bother to run the new defrost thermostat wires through and just tied them up with supplied zip tie. Problem was fixed... never needed to install the defrost timer kit.

Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.

suspected the defrost heater, as fridge always tripped when defrost timer (orange knob behind bottom front grill) was at 3 o clock. Undid the freezer back plate, disconnected heater, rotated knob to 3 o'clock, no trip. ordered new heater and thermostat. can pull cooling coil outward(be gentle) Need needle nose plier to remove clips holding heater in place.
replaced heater, also thermostat for good measure.
Voila!!!

It was easy after it was apparent that the run capacitor was plugged into the compressor. This was determined from a parts diagram of the actual model refrigerator. The part was the same but the location on the video was wrong. A large screwdriver was used to unplug the capacitor from the compressor. The temperature range of the refrigerator is still too wide but it's colder.

I replaced the run capacitor wich is located near the compressor, i first turned power off to fridge than remuved capacitor checked for continuity and the capacitor was the problem thanks

Removed the old part and connected the wires to the new part. Two of the wires on the frig needed to be cut and connected to the new part using butt splices, which I had. Unit is over 20 years old and still working fine. Easy fix.

Emptied unit and removed screws holding panels at rear of freezer compartment. Removed panels. Removed two screws holding motor. Made diagram of wire locations and fan blade orientation. Removed three wires and fan blade from motor. Took new motor and installed wires and fan blade to motor. Installed motor with screws. Test ran frig and reinstalled panels.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Put a thermometer in a glass of water & now runs at 38 degrees.