57751H0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

My son repaired the washer . It was really easy to fix. He had it working in about 15 minutes. Thanks to PartSelect's fast delivery service I was only without my washer 2 days.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

Problem was intermittent. It would happen once a month or so. Eventually I set next to the machine and kept turning it On and OFF through cycles for about a half an hour until it failed and I was able to confirm that problem was with the water valve.

Buying and replacing the water valve was easy.

WARNING: UNPLUG THE WASHING MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE ATEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR WASHING MACHINE!

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

The worst part of the repair was removing the old hub nut. Don't bother messing with the spanner wrench, unless the washing machine has never been used. Split the nut off with a SHARP cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the threads, because not even GE can or will tell you the die size to re-dress the threads if you damage them. Check drain pump motor to remove debris before using washer. Parts were delivered in a quick and efficient manner.

Popped the lid and activated the lid switch. Agitator danced around but the tub not moving. Agitator was un-snapped so no issue getting it out. Forgot to shut the timer down. By the time I came back with container's for wet laundry the pump emptied the water. Found this web site for parts and liked what I saw on the help. The video was a nice overview but can forget about trying to save the hub nut. The trans shaft has 4 flats on it and years of crud gets drawn into the threads sealing it like it was epoxied in with rust. This one is a 13yr old.
Spent most time reading the help stories and gathering up tools. My concern was getting the bad parts out and that hub nut without more damage. Finally found a 1924 vintage 9" monkey wrench I forgot I had and it fit just fine for putting it back together. I put a 1/8" bit in the drill and put a hole in center of nut next to the flats about 1/8" down by 3 of the flats. Wacked the nut in 2 locations with the chisel in the unwind direction with the corner of the chisel in the hole to put a grove on the nut so to keep away from damaging trans shaft. It finally came off in 3 pieces.
After pulling the basket stuck a rag in the drain hole. The basket sounds like it has water in it but its the counter weight attached on top. Brushed up the crud on trans shaft and sponged out the remaining water and other particles.
Next was a pump inspection. If you take the input line off you can see the impeller to remove any stuff that may damage it. Have to un-bolt the pump be careful on the wiring to pump trying to unplug the wires may damage the connectors or even worse the pump. I mostly had crud in the water on the line.
Ordered the needed parts, and cleaned up the tub, reinstalled the pump. After the parts arrived took about a 1/2 hour to put it in service again. Don't forget to wack the hub nut on tight when installing so it wont come off in use.
Many thanks to all in sharing their story it helped me out to see what to expect.

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.