57131T2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

I removed agitator by pulling it up until it unsnaped.

I removed the old agitator coupling by removing the bolt and pulling up while twisting it.

The new coupling looks different than the old part but fits the same.

I pressed the new coupler on to the agitator shaft, reinstalled bolt and pressed agitator on the agitator coupler until it snaped into place.

Washer runs like new!

Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.

This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed up. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

replaced clutch assembly. unplug power; turn off water, disconnect hoses from faucet; remove drain hose from drain; shop vac water from basin through drain hose. bungee hoses and cords, relocate to garage, place blocks, lay unit on blocks on back, remove front cover, mark electrical connections, disconnect- move aside, support motor, i used a ratchet strap behind motor around the tub supports, removed nuts from motor mount bolts, release strap, tilt and remove motor, place on plywood, use opposing small pry bars to remove clutch assembly; remove rust from motor shaft, install new clutch, re-install motor, install belt, tighten ratchet strap, to tighen belt, re install mount bolt nuts, reconnect electrical connections, remove strap, clean gunk from washer case floor, double check connections, mount bolts, belt tightness, re-install front cover, re-position washer, reconnect hoses, and power cord, turn on water, open fron cover, check for leaks; run rinse spin cycle to test - confirm no leaks, ops check complete, good to go. total time, including removing repositioon and removing water, about an hour, clutch replacement time about 15 min's.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

1. take the machine apart, since the noise comes when the barrel is spining, I just watch for anything that contact to the axel.
2. without special tools, it was difficult to take off agigator, and a nut (that tighthened lefthanded).
3. Once defect part found, seach online for the part supply to replace.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

Easy enough. I had some help tightening the hoses to the inlet valve. I watched the video about how to repair and it was straight forward and easy to follow. You'll need a bit of strength to tighten the hoses to the dual water inlet valve. Be precise when lining up the threads of the hose and the inlet valve...don't force it...find it...if it goes on crooked it will strip the threads and wreck it. Recommend purchasing some plumbers tape to wrap on the the threads of the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Fixed the dripping water problem immediately.

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.