56041A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

It was very easy, just one screw to get the belt on, then it was just putting in place and putting it back together took the longest.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Just used hands to pry open the old agitator from the washer. If one angle does not work try another and go in a clockwise direction. The new agitator had a new coupling at the bottom, so I needed something to push it out from the top, found a long metal rod and easily pushed it down and out. Verified that new coupling was exactly the same as the old one. The old one was good so I just pushed the new agitator down on the old coupling and it worked fine.

We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a time. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.

Remove four screws which held the front cover of the washer. Dropped the cover down to expose the temp. switch. Turned the switch 1/8 turn counterclockwise which removed the switch from the cover. Pulled of the four pigtail wire leads and then installed the new switch in reverse order. Very easy!!

I went to your web suite to get part numbers. Found your videos. It told me what my problem was and how to fix it. Pull clip off. install new knob reinstall clip done. Very easy and fast. I couldn't even get a repairman out that fast.

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod

I pulled agitator off revealing rotted hub. Had to remove inner basin from machine. This required pulling off top and tying up to be out off way . I had to get the control panel out of way. Removed back screws and moved it up as though hinged. I had to remove the water fill piece, as this was impeding removal of basin. I had to remove top ring off of inner drum. Needed a second person to hold control panel away as I removed drum. Once drum was out, it was an easy task to replace the rotted hub. I then needed to get the portion that was rotted and still on drive out. Could not wrench the hub nut out due to lack of leverage. Split nut with a chisel. Once old nut out, I cleaned up threads, put inner basin back in, again utilizing assistance in holding control panel out of way. Reinstalled in order. Before I had gone too far, I found that a six pronged jumper had fallen off of the controls. Found where it had been and re-installed. Put remainder back in reverse order. Machine back on line, and working properly.

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

I removed four hex screws from the top of the washer. I found the water level pressure switch and removed the dial. I turned it to remove it from the holding bracket. I removed both wires one at a time and placed them in the new switch one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up. I put the new switch in place and put the top back on using the hex screws. The dial was replaced. When I tested the dial I found that the dial did not match up to the water settings. They didn't even come close. Although the numbers were close on the switches, they were different. I had to remove the new switch and put the old one back on until I can locate the correct switch for my washer.