56031A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.
PS: The washer runs great.

Front panel came off fairly easy then part just unplugged from main unit. It was very easy to fix. My wife first found the part at a Sears repair store and then started searching for the part for a lower cost. She came upon Part Select and found the part was not only lower but also the shipping time was less. After reading all the positive reviews we decided to give this company a try. She ordered the part on a Sunday afternoon and it was at our front door by Tuesday afternoon. We were so thrilled with the service and speed from PartSelect that we saved in our favorites. Would recommend this company to anyone.

Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!

Fold back control panel, pull water level knob off, and unlatch pressure switch. reverse procedure to install new switch.

The original problem was thought to be the timer as the washer would never start the spin cycle. After ordering the timer, I discovered that the problem was actually caused by the fact that I forgot to turn the cold tap water back on after I cleaned the cold water filter screen. The spin cycle does not start until after the tub fills with cold water and rinses the clothes! DUH!

However, while waiting for the new part to come in, I decided to open the old timer and inspect it. I noted that the switch contacts were pretty worn out and decided it would be best to replace the timer because of the age of the washer.

This is what I did:

1. Unplugged power from outlet.

2. Removed four torx head crews from across the top back side of control panel.

3. Tilt panel forward.

4. Note that the timer knob is held to the timer shaft with a plastic clip. You need long thin needle nose pliers to remove this clip. It pulls out and away from the shaft. Once that is done, you can pull the knob off in two pieces.

5. After the knob is off, you can disconnect the timer assembly using a nut driver. Remove the ground wire, disconnect the cable harness connector by squeezing in the locking tabs.

6. Install the new timer with single sheet metal screw, and reconnect cable connector.

7. Attach the ground wire.

8. Replace control knob and retaining clip.

9. Tilt back the control panel and replace the four torx head screws.

10. Plug washer back in.

11. MAKE SURE THE HOT and COLD WATER TAPS are TURNED ON. ;-)

12. Test washer. DONE.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

This story first. I went to local hardware where I purchased the dryer over 10 years ago and asked them if they could get me a new knob. I had the model number and serial number. They said sure can, but they are expensive. They told me that the knob was around $20. and that the shipping would be $10-$15. . Both was under $14.00 at this site. Just alined the knob up on the stem and pushed it on. THANKS!!

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

The trick is to pull the front cover off by using a putty knife .slide it under the cover at both front corners.it will click on each corner.then pull front cover off .lift off the bottom catch hooks.look for the pump on the bottom right side.unplug the wite connector .take 2-5/16 bolts out holding the bracket.then grab a pliers .squeeze the hose clamps and pull the 2 hoses off.assemble new pump.

First I removed the front panel using the screw driver. I removed the old belt which was in the bottom of the washer. I placed the new belt on the motor and adjusted the pullies. I replaced the front panel. The washer spins much better now than it had for the past year.

The wife told me that the wash just wasn’t coming out very clean. So I went to check it out and found that the agitator was just moving freely. Upon closer inspection I found that the coupler had stripped.
I was unable to get the agitator free from the coupler so I had to drill out the inside top of the agitator in order to get at the bold that held the coupler in place. Once I got that out the rest was real simple.
Just bolt in the new coupler and snap in the new agitator into place. That can be harder that you think.
I used a block of wood laid across the top and just tapped it with a hammer to set the unit in place.
Make sure that when you take it apart to save the bolt and the old cap unless you ordered a new cap.

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the drain hose clip to the machine - use bucket to get an excess water - remove bad drain line - I installed a new drain hose clip as well - make sure you put the clip on at the same position as the previous hose - push house firmly into opening and screw into machine - pretty easy repair - and I'm a novice

took off front control panel, searched the internet for reasons for my problem, replaced the pressure switch, did not fox my problem, replaced the intake valve which fixed the problem.

After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.