3LBR8255EQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.

Took off water softener from top of agitator. Pulled up and removed cap with O-ring that covered bolt that held agitator in place.then pulled briskly up on entire agitator from the bottom to remove agitator from machine.After that I put my feet on bottom of agitator and then pulled up on top part to separate the two pieces. After that just follow instruction sheets for parts replacement and then reverse steps to reassemble.

Removed existing lid, two hinges and two rubber spacers. Installed new lid and hinges. Spacers were not mentioned on replacement parts needed. Existing spacers in bad shape but reuseable. Would like to have replaced the right and left spacers.

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

was really simple like others before me described. Removed cap to excess recessed bolt. Once that was out of the way pulled up gently on agitator and disassembled the agitator from base. Actually repair only took about 8 minutes. Working like new again and that keeps everybody happy! Thanks again.

pulled the detergent cup off, pulled the cap out of the upper part of agitator, removed bolt and pulled assembly out. then reversed the process with the new assembly.

The "O" ring just snaps in place. For the lid it was necessary to remove the screws from the hinge on the left side, then extract the hinge rod. Once the hinge rod was removed the lid lifts out. Removed the hinge rod from the right side and installed it on the new lid. Then put the lid back in place, insert the hinge rod into the left side of the lid and replace the screws. Removed the safty switch actuater from the old lid and snapped it in place on the new lid. Done !

First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!

popped off softener cap, easy. Pulled out clear plastic sealer, removed nut holding agitator in, pulled out agitator. Removed cam holder, new cam bearing etc in, reverse removal done, piece of cake.

Had no problem. The instructions included with the repair parts were very easy to follow and even specified the tools to use. I had it done, back on the washer and washing clothes in about a half an hour. The down side(no fault of the parts) was that the entire pump system went out on the second load and we wound up with a new Whirpool washer, since repairs were more than the machine was worth. Thanks Parts select for your help. I plan to search your net for more products. Fixing things from engines to microswitches is a hobby for me.

replace clutcher