This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the micro...
There are two different couplers (also known as a turntable shaft) that can be used for this tray - a male D-shaped shaft and a female D-shaped shaft. The couplers are sold separately.
This magnetron in your microwave creates the radiation needed for cooking or warming your food. It is located inside the main cavity, typically near the transformer or waveguide. When the magnetron be...
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This mounting plate, also known as a bracket, is crucial for keeping your microwave mounted to the wall, when placed above the stove. This OEM part is sold separately from the screws that are needed t...
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Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
I have a GE Advantium/micorwave oven. It is the model that has the hinges on the side, NOT the bottom. First, removing the door is necessary. The grill has to be removed first, then the door lifts right out. Next the plastic backing on the door has to be very carfully taken off to expose where the new latch has to be placed. Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to go around the permiter releasing the internal, unseen, plastic catches that hold it on. This should be done carefully, to avoid breaking the catches that you can't see. After the plastic is mostly removed putting in the spring is not too difficult, but a second set of hands is almost manditory.
Easy as pie! 1. Remove the 2 outer screws holding the top vent in place and remove the vent (it helps to have the door open) 2. Lift the door up, pull the top of the door away from the hinge and then list it up a little more to clear the bottom hinge. 3. Lay the door on the counter and with a putty knife, work your way around the perimeter of the door between the door and the inside bezel. The bezel is held in place with little tabs spaced evenly around the perimeter. 4. Once the bezel is off, the catch assembly is accessible. List it up against the spring pressure, and push it towards the outside of the door to release it from the frame. 5. Reverse procedure to install.
