36273222202 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Oven bottom badly marred after 16 years.
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
Parts Used:
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Charlie from NAPLES, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Getting thew the back
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William from BOSCOBEL, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
Parts Used:
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NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person
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Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
Parts Used:
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Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
Parts Used:
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Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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while cleaning I broke the tubes either lifting or closing the top.
I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.
Parts Used:
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DAPHNE from CHICAGO, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 4 people
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burners would not light
Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.
Parts Used:
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michael from The Villages, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Wrench set
2 of 5 people
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gas burners not heating evenly
remove old burner, put new in place
Parts Used:
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Juanita from GAINESVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
1 of 2 people
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Front burners had to be lit with lighter
My son lifted up cooktop, unscrewed the front plate to gain access to old tube burners, removed and replaced with new parts.
Parts Used:
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Marie from Woodstock, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
2 of 5 people
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Change bulb
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Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 8 people
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Oven Would Not Turn Off
I read the instructions from other peoples repairs. One note: unplug stove, and turn gas off, remember where wires go. I didnt have to remove top of stove completly.
Parts Used:
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david from harrisburg, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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no display
Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!
Parts Used:
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Rebecca from Las Vegas, NV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Burner would not ignite.
Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.
Parts Used:
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John from Los Angeles, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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End cap cracked. Tried to fix it with epoxy, but it didn't work.
Used screwdriver w/star bit to remove two screws (longer one on top). Removed cracked end cap. Placed new end cap into position, making sure all tabs were correctly aligned. Replaced screws (top one first)tightening them slowly & alternating back & forth so as not to crack the new part.
Parts Used:
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William from Lincoln, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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broken light socket
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
Parts Used:
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James from Monterey, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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