361402891 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Replaced door seal and corner seals. Be sure to heat door seal in dryer be for instillation, 2 minutes. Makes for an easy installation.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

First I removed the four screws holding on two metal panels to gain access to the springs. Then I unhooked the broken assembly from the springs. Then I hooked the new assembly to the hinge. Finally, I reconnected the assembly to the springs. (I didn't have to unhook the assembly from the hinge because it had already broken off.)

This part must be one of those that commonly goes because I had replaced the other side about a year ago. The most difficult part a year ago was diagnosing the problem and figuring out how the pieces fit together. This now it was a quick repair because I knew exactly how to fix it. (And thanks to PartSelect for delivering the part in 48 hours even though I didn't pay for quick delivery.)

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The new rollers snapped into place on the rack, by simply pushing them in. I was able to do it by hand, my wife could not do the same, so you might use some pliers.

I first made a bad assumption that the leaking dishwasher was from the gasket. I replaced the gasket and it still leaked. To find the leak, I took the body off of the dishwasher and ran it to find the leak. It was from the solonoid connection. I took photos of the leaking motor unit and very easily replaced the new motor unit by matching the placement from the photos. The hardest part is tipping the dishwasher on its side and mopping up the water.
It was very easy. All you need is a nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver. Even an over-domesticated, non- tool user can do it.

Each replacement wheel came in two parts: the wheel itself and the clip which had to be pushed through the center hole in the wheel in order to attach each wheel to the carriage that holds dishes. I had difficulty assembling the clips and wheels until I ran the clips under hot water to soften them. This made it possible to assemble the wheels and attach them to the dish carriage. I would have preferred the wheels to have come assembled, particularly given the price of each one.

I would like to start-off by saying that I love this site . I've never been even remotely dissatisfied with parts I've ordered and the installation videos are awesome! I would recommend this site to anyone looking to repair appliances. Secondly, I am a retired mechanical designer with over 35 years of experience. I have a broad range of design experience in consumer, governmental, industrial and military part and product design. My opinion about the design having to do directly with my appliance is not very high and after talking with another local parts supplier discovered that this particular design is approximately 20 years old. I wonder how many dishwashers are leaking without the consumer realizing they have this problem. I followed the installation instructions provided by this site verbatim and the dishwasher still leaked like a sieve. This in my opinion goes back to my remarks concerning the design. This is a weak design at best and could benefit from an improvement in that area. After I installed the new parts, the push on nut (upon being seated onto the shaft for the drain valve flapper) was loose and spun freely. The push on nut did not properly compress the seal onto and around the flapper shaft nor into the valve housing. Water leaked through the seal as a result. I disassembled all of the parts again and placed a flat washer between the push on nut and the seal, to help compress the seal onto the flapper shaft and into the valve housing. The washer was a stainless steel flat washer with an ID that fit onto the shaft closely, but was a smaller OD than the seal. The washer was about 1/32" thick. Upon reassembly and observation, the dishwasher leak was stopped with the addition of the flat washer and my issue was resolved.

easiest way i found to do it was pull dishwashers out from under the cabnet... laided a pillow down in front of the door and turned it on the front side... the part was very easy to get to at this angle....could have done it in less then 5 minutes but took my time to double check everything to be safe....took a total of about 10 minutes..... very happy now no longer need to vacume out the old dish water left at the bottom of the dishwasher...... i think most anyone could do this very easy....

Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.

Ordered the new motor/pump here at parts select and with the easy directions I replaced in no time flat. Saved me $300.00 for a replacement.

My GE Potscrubber 940 would not drain on all cycles. After checking the basin traps and not finding any blockage in the water drain line, I suspected that the problem was with the drain solenoid, since the motor was running smooth. I removed the dishwasher, primarily by removing the water supply line on the left side from the water inlet valve and disconnecting the electrical connections. Make sure you turn off the water and electricity before you do any work on the dishwasher. With the dishwasher taken out and on its side, the drain solenoid unit will be visible near the motor in the middle assuming that the front bottom panel of the dishwasher has been removed. I found mine to be all crudded up. I removed the electrical connections and the solenoid bracket. Then by using my multimeter, I found a bad resistance reading (infinity) for the solenoid. I ordered the Drain Solenoid Repair Kit and replaced all the items except the plastic rocker arm. Naturally, just reverse your steps to get the dishwasher back together. Turn the water and electricity back on and fire her up. Check for proper operation and any leaks and you should be done.

Based on what I read from other people and partselect, it was fairly easy to ascertain what was wrong. I removed the solonoid valve by removing the two screws that held in place. Had to clean up the solonoid valve rod due to water leaking into it by running it on a wire brush. Pulled out the stop nut and old seal and replaced it with the new seal. Could not get the new stop nut on but it does not seem to move so let it go. Have to say that reading all the comments certainly helped me with the repair. Additionally, ordered parts by email at 10:30 in the morning and receiving them the very next day. Could not believe they were delivered so quickly.

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.

This seems to be a simple repair, but the push on nut is difficult to remove. Ended up damaging the case, so I am going to buy another dishwasher. If you plan to repair, make sure you pull the unit out to have plenty of room to work with.