This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. This kit comes with all of the pieces you need to replace longer ceramic igniters, though this kit can also repl...
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This gas oven safety valve is used to make sure that no gas is released until the igniter is ready to ignite. This part is for both the bake and broil igniter in your appliance.
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on. Ta-Dah!
