31003SAW Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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igniter burned out
Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.
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David from Milton, MA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
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Oven Was Not Getting Hot
First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3
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Joe from Duarte, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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Broken burner - easy fix
The burner was leaking a rust colored dirt and shooting flames all over the place. The top came off and I needed channel-locks to get the bottom half out. The wires were hard to get off and I broke one connector off so I soldered the wire on to the new part which fit the stove top perfectly. It still took less than a half hour to replace. Without problems it should take about 5 minutes.
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Don from NEW YORK, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
2 of 2 people
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floor panel heavily stained and warped
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Joel from Monroe, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 5 people
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Oven would not maintain set temperature.
1. Closed gas valve at stove supply outlet.
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance
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Charles from Hardy, AR
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 2 people
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The oven igniter came on but the gas valve never turned on.
1. remove oven door 2. remove racks and oven floor 3. remove oven burner 4. unhook igniter 5. install new igniter 6. tuck wiring back in as reinstalling burner 7. put in the insulation supplied in kit 8. install floor and racks. 9. install door. 10. test system 11. oven came on. SUCCESS
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James from PEORIA, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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I needed a broiler pan
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.
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Rhoda P. from Secaucus, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 9 people
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oven would not turn on
I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.
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Robert from Clymer, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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igniter glowed but oven would not light
It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!
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edward from euclid, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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Range burner drip pans were rusted and old
The repair was super simple, just remove the drip pan and place new one.
The hard part was finding the drip pan for such an old model appliance. I had shopped locally here in San Antonio with no luck.
I was very happy to find them (exact match) at Part Select and the price was very reasonable. I'll use Part select in the future for needed parts.
The hard part was finding the drip pan for such an old model appliance. I had shopped locally here in San Antonio with no luck.
I was very happy to find them (exact match) at Part Select and the price was very reasonable. I'll use Part select in the future for needed parts.
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Billye from San Antonio, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
3 of 6 people
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No spark at any of the 4 stovetop burners.
UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!
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Ronald from Berkeley, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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rusty drip trays
finally after years of searching for trays of this size with no luck in local stores, I was able to find and purchase 2 sets, one set for my daughter, which we were able to put in place to clean up our stoves and make them more appealing . Thank-you for your prompt service.
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Pam from Grand Ledge, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
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oven would not heat up fully, smelled of gas.
Took off the top plate at the bottom of the oven, and the flame spreader, removed 2 screws on the igniter, pulled out the broiler tray and unplugged it. Took longer to get off the floor than it did to replace the part.
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Brian from Spotswood, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Stove Would Not Light To Heat Up.
Removed grates and bottom plate two screws holding it. Turn oven light on and unwire the wire. Unscrewed the two screws and replace. This took my husband about ten min. And for him he says that this was a walk in the park. He says if he can do it anyone can. This was one of the easy honey dews. Good luck with yours. Nola & keith
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Nola from Enid, OK
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Gas would come on, would not ignite. Oven not heating.
Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!
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Karen from DAYTON, OH
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person
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