26AA-6CLX Maytag Range - Instructions

Removed heating element, installed new drip pan, replaced heating element. Was amazed at fast delivery - ordered in afternoon, arrived fed ex next morning!

I had determined that the the burner itself was no longer capable of connecting because when I removed another burner and inserted it, it worked just fine. Also, the defective burner had not worked when inserted into another outlet. I was delighted to be able to purchase a replacement so quickly and easily on my own, without having to call a repair person or seek a retail outlet.

Searched the internet for the replacement part, placed the order and then disconnected the old one and inserted the new burner prongs into the socket. Worked perfectly!!!

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

The Burner Control Switch - 250V Part Number: PS2089409 that this site recommended was the right part for this older range. Had to remove screws to pull out the front panel with knobs, but it only pulls out a couple inches due to wires so it is tight to remove old switch. The five tabs are not in same spot so go by the labels and the wire lugs fit just fine, and the knob snapped right on and works great. Thank You!

Turned off the power. Pull the range away from the wall and removed the eight screws holding the cover in place. Carefully pulled the wires off the old switch. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new. Put all the wires on and replaced the back cover and was done. Burner works fine. This part replaces a lot of different number switches.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

The element appeared to have been damaged. I replaced the element with ease. However, I still have the same problem. The oven does not heat up to the set temperature. Information from the part select website is that it is more likely the long oven sensor. I ordered one and will provide the results after I have this sensor replaced with a new one.

The repair only took me 10 minutes to do. I purchased the surface replacement kit from partselect.com. The part arrived in two days. The instructions were very simple. I read the instructions on line during my purchase. When I received the new part, I simply did the repair. Including shipping, the cost was less than $20.00. A service call would have been at least 5x the cost. Thank you for being there Partselect. (Tim from south bend indiana)

The seal is suspended by metal clips at each end, which are inserted into holes in the oven box. The clips on the new seal were a bit too wide to fit into the holes. so I drilled the holes larger, and it worked fine.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

My son-in-law installed the new element. First turn off the electricity and remove oven door. Then unscrew all connections to the element.The back electrical wires come out from the top back oven. The bracket screw faces the oven and the electrical wires are so short there is very little room for a screw driver (get the shortest one you can find..abt as big as your thumb if possible).Once that was out the element came out with no problems.Then it's just reversing the step. Again, that back electical bracket is difficult to get to for install. Also, the new screws in our kit were Philips, but the old ones were flat so check those out before turning off the oven light.

used drill to remove old screw