25368809013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

It was as easy as pie. We just carefully slid the shelf into place. That was it.

Insert new glass into slot. Took less than 2 minutes.

I did it just like the video it was that easy! love this web site amazing!

Only required opening the box and inserting the glass shelf into the shelf frame. I was very impressed with the quick delivery and quality packaging. The website was extremely easy to maneuver.

Insert the replacement glass shelf in my refrigerator. Installation was very easy and simple, no tools needed.

Very easy to do, as per the video instructions.

Just slid the new one into place.

I removed the four bolts holding the light switch and temp knob with a nut driver, unplugged the unit and moved it to the table top. I removed the switch and replaced it with a new one. I plugged the unit back in and drove the four screws in with a nut driver and the light now comes on when I open the door. Real simple!

The repair, if you want to call it that, was a complete no-brainer. The glass slipped right into the shelf. No tools were needed. I was afraid that the glass might break during shipment. However, it was packaged and secured several times over that it was in no danger of breaking during delivery. The part came sooner than I anticipated. I am extremely pleased with this order.

1.) Removed the old broken freezer door retainer bar. 2.) Removed the new freezer door retainer bar from shipping carton. 3.) Inserted new freezer retainer bar into place. 4.)Done is less than 4 minutes.

Used wood blocks to raise the door off the lower hinge bracket then unscrewed the suspect hinge. Cut a small shim, two layers of soda can, to place under the lower edge of the new hinge bracket and doubled the washers by using the old one to ensure I had adequate clearance for the door. After a little silicone lube I installed the new hinge bracket. All better now.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The shelf was out too far to be used on the bottom shelf. The top shelf, which was not as deep was then moved to the bottom and it worked fine. I am wondering if the shelf that was not as deep as the part I received is available. Thank you - maxine