25361762013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.

I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch.
Now what?

I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.

The repair was very easy just popped the new one in place.

The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.

replaced it

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

I had to tap the screw holes with a 8/32 tap so that the screws would not bind.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

Replaced thermo-fuse

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises

jump thermostat,fan and compressor came on, ordered thermo from this excllent parts supplier, part came in 4 days later, it was exact replacement, works exactly right!