This manufacturer-certified Door Shelf Retainer Bar, sometimes otherwise known as the door rack or bar retainer, is a white, plastic part which can be easily installed onto the inside of the refriger...
$53.11
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The Door Shelf Retainer Bar, also known as a refrigerator door rack, is a white, plastic part which can be easily installed onto your fridge door. It holds items in your fridge and will show physical...
$73.41
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Glass only. This glass insert measures 23.82 x 15.50-in.
This is an authentic Frigidaire replacement part. The crisper shelf insert is designed by the manufacturer for use in refrigerators. This par...
$158.30
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This kit includes the motor, clips and terminal connectors. This part has been updated by the manufacture.
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over t...
$97.42
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This is the replacement meat pan for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 18 inches long and 13 inches wide. The meat pan slides into the bottom of the refrigerator shel...
$248.66
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This is a replacement hinge bearing for your refrigerator. The hinge bearing is found on the door hinge, and reduces friction when the door opens and closes. If the bearing is damaged, you may not be ...
$9.27
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No instructions included, so it took a little bit of staring at the new part to figure out how it works. The barbed ridge on the gasket fits into a slot on the door. The flat face of the gasket has an internal magnetic strip that helps keep the seal tight against the steel face of the refrigerator. Installation requires no tools. This is the basic process: 1) Unbox the new gasket and get it ready to install so you don't have to leave the fridge open too long. 2) Open the door and grab the old gasket at one of the corners and pull away. This will unseat the barbed ridge I mentioned above. Work your way around the door until the whole gasket is free. 3) Set aside the old gasket 4) Grab a moistened paper towel and wipe down the (now exposed) sealing surface of the fridge and door. 5) Align the new gasket in the door and start pushing the barb into place. I found that the new gasket seemed slightly oversize compared to the original, so it took a little tweaking. What worked for me was to get all the corners seated, then work my way around the door making sure the gasket is fully seated. 6) Once you have the new gasket installed, close the door to make sure everything fits OK. 7) Open the door again and run your finger along the inside edge of the gasket seal. What you want to do is fold the edge of the gasket down so it lays flat against the outer wall of the door. 8) Shut the door and look from the sides and top to try to spot any gaps. You should be able to poke the gasket from the side and get the magnet strips to click into place. It seems like after a day or so the gasket 'relaxed' and I didn't have to worry about this anymore. 9) Dispose of the old gasket. I was able to pull the gasket into four pieces (separating at the corners) so it would fit in my city trash can...
This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.
I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.
