25353672304 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

First I removed ice maker and tested the micro switches and motor individually. Then checked the resistance of the heater element, and the thermostat. All components tested okay and worked individually. However when installed in the freezer the motor would not turn. and if you manually turned the gear in front, which should cycle everything,nothing would happen. Finally, I found one part that I had not checked, the thermal cut-off, and upon removing it, one wire fell off the small square piece. This wire was corroded. I replaced the unit in about 10 minuites and ice maker is working perfectly again.

To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

The repair was not my worry, but ordering the correct part. I was so pleased with this web site and the quick delivery of the part that I ordered. I easily found the bin I needed for my refrigerator and had the part at my doorstep with two days. I am extremely happy with this site.

Upright refrigerator/freezer. Damage was on refrigerator side door- lower hinge. Removed everything from inside fridge door. Removed plastic protector plate on top of door hinge with phillips screwdriver. Pulled out top hinge and removed door. Undid two small screws holding bottom bearing hinge bracket. Took out chewed up old bearing hinge. Cleaned bracket of debris. Attached bracket with screws. Inserted new bearing hinge. Put door back on fridge, re-attached top hinge and protective cap. (Still trying not to cringe out of habit when opening the door)

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

Simply replaced the drawer cover (frame) of that shelf. Removed crisper drawer, removed glass shelf, removed frame, placed new frame in, then glass, then drawer. Very easy.

The repair for this was very simple, although it was a tight squeeze. The model I replaced the ice maker on was a side by side. First I removed the ice bucket so I could have more room to work with. Then I unscrewed 2 screws on the left side wall holding the ice maker in place. These screws had a 1/4" nut top on them so I used my socket driver for this. Then a quick disconnect of the wiring harness. Very Simple. I did the reverse to install the new unit. Total time was around 5 minutes or so. I now have ice again.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

It was very simple. I order the complete Ice Container with Auger. It is great that it is already assembled. I just took out the old one and slipped the new one in. It has been working great ever since. I am just sorry that I waited so long to order the part. It was already like four months that the Auger started to give out on me. Thank You for everything, especially the delivery time.

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video

Pulled the fridge from encloser, removed rear cardboard cover and found compressor in rear. The compressor, being very accessable, was easy to find the bad starter/capacitor. I removed the spring retainer, pulled the capacitor off the starter, removed the starter by pulling outward and replaced with new. All went well when the unit started and cooled as new. Some noise at times, but traced to icemaker. As time went by, that noise was gone.

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order