25331802108 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

You tube is my best friend for DIY repair. I supported the door with wood blocks, removed the bottom bracket and was able to slide the refrigerator door down and out without removing the freezer door. Replaced both hinge bearings and door stop and washer on bottom hinge and slid the door back into place. Door is very light when empty. Fast and easy, door opens and closes smoothly and no problem with condensation anymore.

Very easy. Watched a video on your site prior to getting the glass replacement. Removed the crisper drawers. Placed the glass in the front and placed it down. Took just a few minutes. Love your site and will come back again when needed. Thank-you.

Turned off fridge circuit breaker
Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler.
Removed shelves from freezer
Removed ice maker
Removed 2 hex head screws
Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection.
Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker
Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge.
Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer.
Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover.
Cut wires near thermostat and removed
Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place.
Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected.
Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover.
Reinstalled ice maker
Reinstalled shelves.
Put food back in
Turned circuit breaker back on.

A little difficult getting out due to restricted space, I took off the fan blade, that gave extra working room. Then it went well going back together,and it all worked as advertised. Thanks. p

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Looked up similar problems and found it to be the defrost timer. All I had to do was remove the plastic portion in the fridge section to get to the old timer. Popped the new one in and put it back together. Works great now. Would have been almost $150 to have a repair company come out and fix it.

Just had to pop the old pieces out, assemble the new ones, and pop them in. Very easy. Anyone can do it.

I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.

First removed existing damaged shelf retainer bar and end caps from freezer door. Next cut down new oversized retainer bar to size with hack saw. Then slightly opened up doubled over metal at each end of retainer bar with pliers and screw driver in order to create the small "nicks" that are needed to house the "bumps" that secure the retainer bar to end caps. Used tin snips for this. Next inserted new end caps and used pliers to crimp secure. Clipped in new assembly in freezer door.

Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.

First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.

Removed the screws on the piece holding the switch which is at the front of the ceiling of the refrigerator box. Removed the old switch and replaced it. Very simple repair.

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)