The Door Rack (also known as a retainer bar) is a 23" white plastic part used to hold small items inside the fridge door. If broken, it should be replaced. Refer to your user manual and model number t...
This screw is used in refrigerators. The screw can be loosened or tightened with a Phillips-head or square-head screwdriver. This screw is used to secure the refrigerator handle to the refrigerator do...
This kit includes the motor, clips and terminal connectors. This part has been updated by the manufacture.
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over t...
This small, Phillips-head screw works with your refrigerator/freezer. It screws in to the freezer door and connects to the door handle. This part is made of stainless steel and is sold individually. T...
This is a replacement hinge bearing for your refrigerator. The hinge bearing is found on the door hinge, and reduces friction when the door opens and closes. If the bearing is damaged, you may not be ...
This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.
I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.
I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)
