2533111330G Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I watch the video on your site and this make iit very easy to do. That repair that tooks me 40 minutes.

The bulb wasn't the issue so I was hopeful the switch was. utube helped me some, but figuring my model was different than any on utube. Got the switch in and plugged it back in. Moment of truth. Didn't light. Ugggh! Out $50 for switch plus $20 for nut driver set.

I used the youtube you provided. It was pretty straight forward, but I had to make a trip to the hardware store for a bit (hex wrench) to remove the hex bolt head style screws. I was only expecting to need phillips or flathead. I managed to remove one with a set of pliers, and the brought that example to the store for size reference when buying the bit to fit my black and decker drill. The rest was easy.

Installation was fairly straight forward. The major complaint is that the problem returned 2 weeks later. I don’t know if I care to re-invest in another switch.
Now what?

Remove lower cardboard refrigerator panel. Carefully pull existing cracked fan blade off of the motor shaft and replace with new fan blade. Reinstall cardboard panel.

Very easy process. Watch the YouTube video, it goes step by step for the repair. The part was $33, shipping was $6. Take your time and fix it yourself or pay $500 for a new refrigerator.

Removed panel over the motor in the freezer department. Removed screws holding the motor in, unplug wires. Reversed process to install motor.

REPLACED TIMER-DEFROST 215846602..REPLACED THERMOSTAT-DEFROST KIT 5303918202..REPLACED CONTROL, TEMPERATURE 5304421256..RECHARGED SYSTEM WITH 134A...ALL FANS WORKING...COMPRESSOR RUNS.. FREEZER STILL NOT GETTING COLD ENOUGH...HOLDING AT 20 DEGREES...ANY SUGGESTIONS..THANKS..DAN

I tested the components in the refrigerator defrost function. I used digital multimeter and checked for continuity. Defrost thermostat must 32 degrees or lower.

This was not technical at all. The old door fell out and the replacement door snapped right into position. It was simple.

I simply removed 4 screws holding the casing and then 2 more holding the timer. It was very easy. I then replaced the timer by unplugging and plugged the new one in. I replaced all the screws and the job was done. Less than 30 minutes. I was very impressed with the shipping time. When I ordered the part, I had it the next day.

I had to loosen the screw holding the mounting block and increase the hole size to fit the screw on refrigerator

Unplugged fridge. Removed freezer shelves and unscrewed and removed plastic shelf brackets. Removed the lower rear panel. Removed the bin for ice. Removed the 2 exposed upper rear panel screws. At this point I was able to flex the panel quite enough to access the fan motor. Carefully plugged the fridge back in and turned it on long enough to verify the existing evap. fan motor was not running. Powered off and unplugged again. Removed the fan and it's support assembly, and replaced with new. Had to cut the wires and splice and crimp with the provided wire nuts since the plugs in this model were different. Powered on fridge to check fan function. Reassemble and go home looking' like a hero! Saved my BFF a couple hundred bucks.

The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.

Traced issue to defrost timer ( burned compressor & element contacts). This unit is mounted next to the temperature adjustment control in the refridgerator area - right in front. Removal of plastic cover provided easy access to the timer. Unit unscrews from the mounting then unplugs. Installation is reverse of removal.