25324082100 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I followed the You-Tube instructions, removed the ice from the compressor and replaced the thermostat with the part I received from Part Select. What I took out was a part that was very much inferior to the replacement part. The repair saved me a lot of money for a new freezer and it was not difficult to do following the video. Now the freezer runs better and quieter than ever. Thank you Parts Select.

The evaporator fan would make a very high-pitched whine/squealing noise usually after starting up after a defrost cycle, although, it would make the same noises during normal operation. After performing a thorough inspection of the fan blade and motor, I discovered that there was no interference to the rotating fan, and realized the motor must be failing. After removing the food and racks from the main body of the freezer, I had to remove 8 Philips-tipped screws that held the inside back panel cover on. I disconnected the fan motor from the main wiring harness, removed the fan mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head screws), and then removed the fan motor from the mounting bracket (2 5/16" hex head bolts. I removed the fan blade and conducted a visual inspection, and found not blemishes of broken/damaged pieces. I mounted the new motor and used the existing fan blade, and replaced everything in the reverse order. I turned on the freezer and it has been operating perfectly since. I disassembled the old motor and discovered that the stator coils were worn, and the bearings allowed to much forward/aft motion.

When i found out there was no thread in brace where bolts were supposed to screw in, I panicked. I thought I would have to send part back or go to a machine shop to make a thread. I called a friend for help and he told me the bolts would make the thread if I just screwed them in. Sure enough, the bolts made the thread and then I just proceeded to instal motor and put refrigerator back together. It was simple.

per the video..easy installation....unfortunately the temperature did not improve. We still have a refrigerator temp in the upper freezer.....and a "cooler" in the refrigerator section

I should have ordered start kit instead of start capacitor. The start cap astir did not fix problem so I ordered kit. Compasator comes as part of kit. Followed enclosed instructions. Cut existing wires and reconnected new wiring. Simple as that. It's a plug in item. Now worried it may be working to good. Freezer down to 10 deg. Watching to see if compressor is running to long. Seems ok lol. Wife hates me now. She wanted new frige.

replaced controller start capacitor as per troubleshooting checklist. Was not the problem, then replace controller kit. seems to have resolved the problem.Temperature more constant. The problem with this refrig though in my opinion is that only one thermostat controls both the freezer compartment evap fan in freezercompartment also blows cold air into refrigcomp. There is not very much control over both temps. Am in monitoring both compartments and hoping that freezer will keep things frozen

Replaced freezer defrost thermostat. Unit worked perfectly.

Remove the cover panel inside the freezer, remove and replace the fan motor (pull fan blades off old motor and push on the new one) and replace the cover.

Pulled freezer out from where located to allow shelves to be removed.Unplugged unit, removed shelves and evaporator cover, installed new fan motor. Plugged unit up to check fan motor operation. Reassembled unit, installed shelves and moved freezer back into original location.

After researching other issues found on internet about same problem, decided to replace both thermostat and temperature control thermastat before going to the repairman way. I saw the videos given on this web site, ordered the parts and when they came in, unplugged freezer and started taking apart the back cover not sure what I would find. Turns out it was just that simple, unplugged the thermastat and unclipped it from the cooling fins, unplugged the temperature control switch and then plugged both units back in. The tricky part was coiling the temperature sensor ( not that tricky). I was done in about 45 minutes but that also included cleaning out and scrubbing the bottom and sides of freezer since I had everything out anyways. Started the freezer back up and took about 8 hours to freeze ice and other food at a setting of 4, where as before I had it set on 7 and was still not keeping the ice cream cold.

Plugged in the new parts. No tools were required. Sears wanted to charge me $300 for the repair!

Not sure if it was the Controller or the run capacitor that went bad and took out the controller, so, purchased both an replaced both. Snapped of the wire retainer,unpluged the controller, used pliers and small screw driver to disconnect the controller, plugged wires into the new controller, plug the run capacitor into it ahd reinstalled, so far running great.

Unplugged freezer from electrical socket. Removed lower trays from freezer. Removed sound proof stripping from sides of back panel. Removed upper, lower and side screws from back, lower panel using No. 2 phillips screwdriver. Disconnected motor wires from quick disconnect power supply. Removed motor bracket from freezer back using nut driver. Removed motor from bracket using same nut driver. Replaced motor and screws in bracket. reattached quick disconnect. Attached fan blade to motor making certain to push blade on shaft securely. Replaced bracket to freezer back. Replaced back cover. Replaced stripping. Plugged into power supply. Total time 15-20 minutes.

Followed the sites instructions. Empty the bottom part of the freezer. Remove the screws. Move the panel out of the way. Easily remove the old part and replace with the new. Put the panel and screws back in place. The freezer works.

Upluged power pulled freezer out from wall removed the two screws that holds the defrost timer unpluged defrost timer pluged new timer in mounted new timer back with the two screws pluged freezer back in and job was complete. Freezer working fine.