21433 (1988) Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I threw away the old pieces.

Then I connected the two wires on the new element. I pushed the wires back in the insulation in the wall of the cabinet. Then I inserted the two screws and tightened them in.

SUPER EASY!!!!!

This $40 part saved me $1500 on a new double wall oven.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

Removed 2 screws, pulled element out. My husband used an ohmmeter to see if the electricity needed to be turned off. It showed no voltage. He could not remove electrical connectors by hand, so he used insulated pliers. When he touched the connectors, a shower of sparks covered the inside of the oven and tripped the breaker switch. Then we noticed the pliers were welded to the side of the oven. Thankfully the pliers had insulated handles and he was not hurt. It might be a good idea to put in the instructions to TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN in the breaker panel because our oven was definitely HOT. Oven works perfectly now.

I used tiny amount of WD40 on old screws,let sit for 2 minutes. Tapped the screws(2) of them with a small hammer to wake them up, I had a cordless drill and they backed right out. Pulled the old element out, used needle nose pliers to pull connectors off of the element(wiggle gently) put the new element on, reinserted back in the oven,attached with new screws that came with the element, started the oven. Worked Perfect!!!

Unplug Stove removed screws pulled out
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.

turned off power, removed two screws mounting the old element, cut wires, and removed old element, crimped new stake connectors onto existing wiring, attached stake connectors to new element, installed element with two new screws provided, turned power back on.
It would be easier to just slip the two stake connectors off and reinstall on the new element but I elected to install new connectors because the oven was over ten years old and one seemed loose.

Removed the screws that held the element and disconnected it. Placed the new element in the proper place, connected the wiring, and replaced all the screws. The unit worked beautifully, and all is well. My wife is happy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Clipped the wires back onto new element and used the two stainless screws provided in kit to resecure.

It should be noted that I first called a local Maytag Appliance Co. and inquired about this element. I was told that they would have to order it and it would cost me 68.00 plus tax. I told them I knew what these elements are worth and their price was a gouge. They didn't care. This is a repair that anyone knowing how to work a Phillips screwdriver can perform. Save some money and do-it-yourself.

Thanks Partselect!

I removed the two screws holding the element in place and disconnected the two wire terminals.
I then reversed the above steps to insatll the new element. SUPER EASY!!

Fortunately, we had read the instructions on line, because none were included with the part. Still, it was REALLY easy. We unscrewed the two screws, pulled the element away from the back wall and pulled the wires off the contacts at the back. (That was the hardest part, because they were stuck-on well. WD-40 was helpful here.) The one piece of paper that did arrive with the part told us the ground wire was no longer necessary if you use the new screws that came with the part, so we ended up cutting the ground wire off. We then put the other wires back on the new contacts, pushed it back into place, and re-screwed it to the back wall. We have used the oven several times since, and it's all working well.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

no instructions on how to replace element. first i removed the 2 screws that held the element to the oven. then i pulled the element out with the wires attached. at first i couldn't tell how the wires were attached - i thought they may have been soldered on. it took awhile for me to figure it out the wires were attached to a part that pulls up off the element part. no solder was needed. after i figured that out, easy to pull the part up off the element part.

I drilled two holes on the plate and I did use same original screws.

I just wanted to say once it was installed, It worked great.

Thank you,

Sam

I removed the two screws that held in the old part. I pulled the element out a few inches.I disconnected two wires from the old element and connected it to the new. Using the screws provided I reconnected the unit. All went well. No need for repairman. 1

In principle it should be easy to replace the broil element in the wall oven, after unscrewing the supports for the back and front of the element (see other postings for details). The difficulty is with the ground screw, which is inconveniently only accessible from behind close to the back wall of the oven. A very short phillips screw driver is required, but designed so that good torque can be applied for unscrewing and replacing. The newly designed ground connector on the latest replacement elements makes life a little easier, but still be prepared to work slowly and carefully to complete the replacement. Note the new ground screws supplied only work with a flat-blade screw driver, not a phillips-type.