207RHV786J Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.

the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,

I had purchased a partselect heating element for my larger lower oven previously so I knew what to expect on replacement.

I shut off the power to the stove from the electrical box. Next I removed both the cooking racks from the oven. Then the side removable panels and bottom as this is a P7 removeable panel oven. This gave ne easy access to the nuts/screws holding the element in place. Once the screws were removed I pulled out the element and disconnected the leads. I replaced the new piece reversing the process.

Gasket sent did not match the profile of the original. Only after trimming off two long edges of the gasket did it come close to matching the original. I would not recommend using this replacement gasket for this oven model. 1-Remove door. 2-Loosen the 2 oven box attachment nuts on the back of the oven. (loosen only, about 3/8") 3-slide the oven box toward the front of the oven. 4-remove old gasket, and insert new. 5-Retighten 2 oven box attachment nuts. 6-Reinstall door. Took especially long because of incorrect gasket. Deep well socket required to loosen oven box attachment nuts. Recommend two people to do, one in back, for attachment nut and one in front to keep gasket in place while tightning nuts.

Removed the burned-out element with appropriate tools; installed new element with same tools.

Customer service is great. Fast shipping. Great communication. I have them bookmarked from a previous order. Same good service as the first time. Thank you.

First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.

Wire connection from the oven was too small and I had to make it larger with a flat head screwdriver and pliers. I used a head flashlight for I could see better. I would suggest not having a glass of wine before starting the repair. It would have only taken me 15 Minutes instead of 30.

Unscrewed the 2 screws holding the old one in and the 2 bolts holding the bracket. Installed the new one in. 20 minutes.

lift eye slide in bowl and trim ring, put the eye back down,

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

First I shut off the circuit breaker for the oven then removed the screws that hold the element in place. The element was pulled out about 3 inches and unscrewed the 2 screws to disconnect the two wires. Upon receipt of the new element, I simply reversed the above process and the oven performed like new. Very easy, very quick and very grateful to have the oven operating again and it was a very inexpensive fix.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Unplugged Stove, pulled away from wall. With smaller wrenches, took the two screw-nuts off the inside back and above that hold the broiler element in place. Since it is an older stove...took the back panel off the stove with philips screw-driver which consisted of 10 screws. Once that was removed was able to unscrew the broiler element from the two wires that provide the electricity. Used the flash light when I had to unfasten the screw-nuts inside the stove because kitchen lighting wasn't strong enough.