20133 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.

The oven that was in out newly purchased house was a JennAir and over 20yrs old. Worked ok, but as with any heating element, the performance wanes over time. I decided to replace the baking and broiling element...and the oven door seal while I was at it. Everything went well, it was a simply remove/replace. Then I bumped the oven door where it was leaning up against the fridge waiting to be reinstalled. Down it fell on the tile floor. SMASH! Tempered glass EVERYWHERE. Got online with PartSelect and ordered a replacement (very reasonable price). It arrived in 2 days...just like the elements. Replacement was easy. Thanks to PartSelect for having the parts in stock and delivering them in record time!

Motor (Blower Motor Kit) Part Number: PS1569907
No instructions are included in the package from PartSelect. Disassembly from the main housing was relatively simple. I found that paying VERY careful attention to how the original motor was wired and mounted would pay off in correct re-assembly, conquering motor vibration and rubbing. Most of my project time was spent cleaning the rotating blade wheel from 20 years of grease build-up. On tools, I would have appreciated the inclusion, or availability as an accessory, of a long-stem correct-size allen wrench (used in removal of the fan blade wheel.) The job went well, and probably saved me $200 in service call and labor.

First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.

Fortunate to have the replacement parts available.
Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

Attached spring to damper, placed on existing 5" duct and secured. Used screwdriver to attach vent cover to damper.

First I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 5 inches so I could reach and pull off the wire clips from the old element. I then attached the wire clips onto the new element and pushed back the wires into the insulated area and when the back plate matched up to the screw holes, I re-inserted the screws and tighten them down. The oven works great.

As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.

- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken.
- 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease.
- the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

First we removed the two screws that hold the element in place. After pulling it from the back of the oven we did not realize that the clips that held the wires could be slipped off the 'tongues' of the element. Therefor we thought we had to cut the wires - which we did. After realizing that the clips came off, we went to the store and bought a box of new clips, stripped a small portion of the plastic on the wire to expose the wire and put it in the new clips and crimped them. Then slipped the new clips onto the new element, replaced it and put the old screws back. You wouldn't need to buy new clips (not expensive) if you know ahead that they can be removed from the old element and slipped onto the new one. We were amazed at how quickly the element arrived in the mail. Have bookmarked this sight for future repairs.

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.