1999 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

After nearly 20 years of use (and no service) my Maytag dishwasher stopped getting dishes clean. I called Maytag and they made me an appointment with a nearby service center. The Maytag person also suggested I do a run with an open container in the dishwasher filled with a couple of cups of white vinegar – since that dissolves the white scale buildup from hard water. That helped a lot. Yay Maytag!

I had 5 days to wait for service, so I started Googling. I found very negative reviews of my local service center, but I also learned that I could buy a replacement detergent dispenser online and I found excellent simple instructions for installing it. It arrived in two days and I installed it. The hardest part was removing the front panel of the dishwasher to get access and supporting it while taking out the last couple of screws – then holding it in place afterwards while putting the screws back in. I recommend having a second pair of hands!

I also realized that the two rotating spray arms (at the bottom and at the top) weren’t rotating! They’re easy to remove (just unscrew the center component), and I found that many of the holes were clogged – including all the ones pointing sideways that make them spin. I had to force water inwards through the holes to dislodge the debris, then I filled the arms with water through the center hole and sloshed it around to clear things out. That worked. I put it back together – and the dishwasher is now as good as new!

For good measure I took the cover off the strainer in the bottom to clean it, but surprisingly the strainer was almost completely clean.

I cancelled the service appointment, of course. I’m sure I saved a lot of $$$.

I had read that recently mandated reformulation of dishwasher detergent with lower phosphate content makes it less effective – but I’m not seeing that: a little simple maintenance and my dishes are 100% squeaky clean again!

I opened the door and pulled the old gasket out using a flathead screwdriver to pry up the difficult to remove areas. I cleaned the area with a damp cloth and place the new gasket in the slots. The entire process including the cleaning took no more than 10 minutes. It was so easy. By the way, I had the part in my hands 2 days after ordering it. I am very impressed with the service.

had to pull the unit out abour 6" and simly replaced the springs - it was easy

Removed the front of the door by removing 2 screws in each side.

Remove 2 screws on each side holding control panel

Removed old gasket by pulling it out, and installed new gasket. Used needlenose pliers to pull tabs securely into slots.

The Retaining Nut of my Upper Spray Arm fell off and was stripped. I was thinking I was going to have to get a new dishwasher because mine is pretty old. I found Partselect.com and plugged in my model number and it gave me all the parts. It cost me less than $10 with shipping and it saved me about $450.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Unscrewed the diswasher from the counter, pulled it out to access the right main door spring and took out the old spring.I installed the plastic washer then slipped the spring throught it and pulled the spring donw with the needle nose vicegrips and inserted the bottom of the spring into the lower hole. I pushed the dishwasher back andrefastened it to the counter.

I removed four screws and thus the front plate at the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed the old spring, using a long nose pliers and, still using the pliers, replaced it with the new one. The enclosed instructions were helpful as was the previous letter written by someone with the same problem. I then replaced the bottom plate and the door worked as it should. Thanks for once again having the part I needed.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.

Just as everybody explained, 4 screws for the door panel, 6 screws for the dispenser, out and in, 15 minutes!!! There are plenty of screws on the door but, once i knew i was looking for 4 screws, it was a cinch!!! Thanks for that tip. All my appliances are the same age so i 'll be back to this site again!!

Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.

The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.

Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.

It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.

Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!