19595 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.

bimetallic latch to release soap cover was broken.
Had to order entire soap cup assembly to get the bimetallic strip. Removed strip from new assembly and replaced broken strip. Put remainder of cup in box and saved for spare parts.

This was a pain to change due to very limited access. Also belt had very little stretch. Had to really put some thought in it before attempting.

lostened motor mounts,
streched belt across pulleys,
thghtened motor tension
replaced access panel.

had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.

After removing the cover to the motor assembly, I determined that the problem was that the old drive belt had broken. It probably was more than 20 years old. I originally thought that the size was no longer available because the old belt had stretched about two inches, but, after reading the repair stories on the PartsSelect Website, I decided to try the 25 3/8" belt. It worked great! After a few tries I was able to stretch the belt across the two pulleys without having to loosen anything. After applying the silicon grease, the dishwasher worked as good as new. The most difficult aspect of the job was having to work in such a small space. The most time-consuming part of the job was removing and then replacing the access cover, but the job overall was quite easy.

Changed springs on both sides as long as I was at it. Did this without having to pull out built in washer. Lock the door closed to give the least tension on the springs. Remove kick plate at bottom of washer. Remove small access panels on each side. If you have small enough paws you can reach thru the access holes and strectch the spring with your fingers to remove and install new springs or use needle nose pliers if you have to. Don't forget the nylon bushings that come with the springs or the metal on metal contact will eventually nick the springs hook and make them break . Hook top end of spring first (rounded hook) and then stretch spring by grasping between thumb and index finger and hook into bottom hole. Hardest part is having to lay on your stomach to do it. Reassemble and count the money you've saved.

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

Removed the seal and replaced with new one. Job went very easy. Stop the leake. Thank you.

Claude Miller

I removed four philips screws to remove the front door panel. Next I removed the screws holding in the detergent cup. Removed the two electrical wires from the cup release. Reveresed the process to install the new detergent cup.

Firstly, I'm a 58 year old female and this repair was relatively easy for me, thanks to all the marvelous instructions on this site from others who made this same repair. Like the others, I removed the four lower screws on the INSIDE of the door along either outer edge. Before that, in error, I removed the four screws along the very bottom of the door, big mistake, hard to get them back in correctly. Removed the door panel and took out the 6 nuts from the dispenser cup, slipped the electrical clip thingys from the posts by slightly wiggling them straigt off, remember which color goes where. Cleaned the area around the old gasket and reattached the new gasket and dispenser cup. This was a little tricky holding it in place from the inside while using the nut drive on the outside. Whew! That was the hardest part for me. Thanks to all for the previous detailed instructions. I now have really clean dishes! Yay! Great feeling of accomplishment.

Replaced whole assembly

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

Read thru the comments by others and matched them up with what I found (belt off the pulleys) when I took off the kickplate below the door. The old belt (20 years) had stretched about 1 1/2" compaired to the new replacement. Slip the new belt on the motor pulley and start it around the back of the pump pulley. Get your wife to hold your legs down so you can really twist/pull the pump pulley until the belt finally slips into place. No need to loosen the motor mounts if your wife can hold you down.