This flywheel puller is designed for servicing larger small engines by safely removing tightly seated flywheels without stressing the crankshaft or damaging ignition components. Constructed from heavy...
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as drippin...
This bottle of oil can be used in over 150 different types of machinery. It is most commonly used for pressure washers and generators from manufacturers such as Briggs and Stratton and Troy-Bilt. This...
It is a genuine OEM sourced replacement component which is specially designed for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. This item fits the crankcas...
This timing key is an OEM direct from Briggs & Stratton. The metal component is compatible with many small engines, and is sold individually. The key secures the shaft in the crankshaft. A wrench is o...
It is a genuine OEM supplied replacement screw is specially designed for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. This is one of the screws for the ai...
This is a genuine replacement part manufactured for small engines. This special gasket lies between the muffler and cylinder head, it is recommended to replace the gasket whenever installing the muffl...
This is a Genuine OEM Authorized Gasket used on variety of Lawn and Garden Equipment Engines. This part is made out of Rubber and it is sold individually. If the carburetor is leaking fuel it is recom...
$6.95
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Removed tank and drained old gas. Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner. Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again. Cleaned spark plug electrode. Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls. Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium. Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.
Removed old broken rewind starter (4 bolts); found the Model and Serial numbers; found Parts Direct and ordered new assembly; upon delivery, reinstalled with new Starter and hardware.
