150312-0112-E8 Briggs and Stratton Engine - Overview
Sections of the 150312-0112-E8
[Viewing 5 of 5]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Puller-flywheel
PartSelect #: PS8905120
Manufacturer #: 19203
This flywheel puller is designed for servicing larger small engines by safely removing tightly seated flywheels without stressing the crankshaft or damaging ignition components. Constructed from heavy...
$33.95
Special Order
Kit-needle/seat
PartSelect #: PS8963322
Manufacturer #: 398188
Genuine manufacturer approved carburetor needle valve for lawn and garden equipment engines. This item includes the seat. The needle valve opens and closes to control the flow of fuel into the carbure...
$11.95
In Stock
Order within the next 1 hr and 52 mins and your part ships today!
Cap-oil Fill
PartSelect #: PS8945667
Manufacturer #: 281658S
This manufacturer approved replacement part is specially produced for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. It is utilized to keep the oil in the t...
$7.95
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Filter-a/c Foam
PartSelect #: PS8983404
Manufacturer #: 493537S
Genuine Manufacturer Sourced replacement part used on a variety of Briggs and Stratton Engines. This filter adds a second layer of protection against airborne-dirt particle ingestion. This is a Foam P...
$11.95
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Washer-sealing
PartSelect #: PS8940580
Manufacturer #: 271716
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as drippin...
$6.95
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Starter Pawl-Ratchet
PartSelect #: PS8942598
Manufacturer #: 281505S
This Genuine OEM ratchet pawl is a critical component designed to engage the recoil starting system with the engine, ensuring smooth and reliable starts. Manufactured from durable plastic, this replac...
$5.95
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Filter- A/C Cartridge
PartSelect #: PS8987387
Manufacturer #: 491588S
This is a replacement air filter/AC cartridge for your small engine. The air filter prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine. Over time, the air filter can become clogged or damaged, and this...
$12.95
In Stock
Order within the next 1 hr and 52 mins and your part ships today!
Engine Spark Plug Terminal
PartSelect #: PS8988266
Manufacturer #: 493880S
This spark plug terminal is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer. The metal terminal is designed to fasten the spark plug to the engine lead wire. This component is sold individu...
$5.95
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Pulley/spring Assembly
PartSelect #: PS8988822
Manufacturer #: 498144
This manufacturer approved recoil starter pulley is designed for lawn and garden equipment engines. The recoil starter engages the drive cup on the flywheel to start the engine when pulled. This assem...
$33.95
In Stock
Order within the next 1 hr and 52 mins and your part ships today!
Screw
PartSelect #: PS9150734
Manufacturer #: 791972
This is a genuine manufacturer sourced replacement part which is specially designed for use with lawn and garden equipment. It is a high-quality hardware which has multiple applications depending on t...
$7.95
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Shaft-choke
PartSelect #: PS9148744
Manufacturer #: 790624
This is an authentic OEM sourced component which is specially made for Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on lawn and garden equipment. It is an identical replacement for a missing or faul...
$30.95
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Retainer-valve
PartSelect #: PS9074718
Manufacturer #: 692194
This is an authentic replacement part manufactured for use with Briggs & Stratton small engines. The special retainer is commonly used as spacing between the head of the valve and the valve spring. Th...
$10.95
Special Order
Common Symptoms of the 150312-0112-E8
[Viewing 2 of 2]Will Not Start
Fixed by
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Cannot pull starter cord out or engine will not turn over
Fixed by
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these parts
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Mistreated Briggs & Stratton 206 CC Engine on MTD Chipper
Removed tank and drained old gas.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Parts Used:
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Dana from HAMMOND, IN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Parts fit like a glove
Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.
Parts Used:
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Wayne from OOLTEWAH, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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Needed to replace muffler
Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.
Parts Used:
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Philip from LINEVILLE, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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