This authentic OEM replacement part fits a variety of Toro and Briggs & Stratton engines. An O ring is used to retain pressure between rigid parts. Its flexible material allows it to create a tight se...
This is a genuine item that is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer for Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on lawn and garden equipment. The repair manual contains ea...
This is a Genuine OEM replacement part used on a variety of Lawn and Garden equipment. The key helps to secure Flywheel in place. This is a Metal Key and it is Sold Individually. You would need Plier...
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as drippin...
This bottle of oil can be used in over 150 different types of machinery. It is most commonly used for pressure washers and generators from manufacturers such as Briggs and Stratton and Troy-Bilt. This...
It is a genuine OEM sourced replacement screw which is specially designed for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on lawn and garden equipment. Please refer to the appropriate diag...
This replacement screw is a high quality hardware that is commonly utilized on Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. It has multiple applications depending ...
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The rewind guard is commonly found on small engines from Briggs & Stratton. This part is made of high-quality plastic, and is used to cove...
This authentic item is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer for use with engines, outboard motors, portable generators, snowthrowers, and lawn mowers made by Briggs & Stratton an...
$9.95
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I found the model number of the Briggs & Stratton engine on the inside of the engine housing. Ordered a new starter-rewind unit, as the old cord broke and the thing was well worn. The instructions were clear enough, but to get the old starter off I had to drill out four rivets, which just spin around when you try. I used a hacksaw, chisel, pliers, whatever worked on each rivet; this took a while. When they were finally removed, the new starter pull unit was relatively easy to install with the small nuts and bolts provided. On the Yard Machines log splitter, putting back the engine housing is quite tricky; you have to jostle the thing into place, get the pull handle above the cover and line up the bolt holes.
Total disassemble, clean out water and any rust. hone cylinder, wire brush where needed,reassemble with new rings,gaskets and seals and lucas oil product. Started on second pull. Mowed lawn. If you have never done this sort of work before, probably should not attempt.
Inspected/removed fuel lines and found signs of leak. Removed and inspected carburetor and found that seals and gaskets were toast. Replaced said seals with ones from the kit that fit and replaced fuel lines.
Would be nice to have a fuel line kit with the big fuel line (tank to carb) and the little one (carb to engine) together with all the necessary clamps.
