126312-0023-E2 Briggs and Stratton Engine - Overview

Removed tank and drained old gas.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.

Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.

Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.