123332-0136-E1 Briggs and Stratton Engine - Overview
Sections of the 123332-0136-E1
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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Washer-sealing
PartSelect #: PS8940580
Manufacturer #: 271716
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as drippin...
$6.95
Special Order
Filter-a/c Foam
PartSelect #: PS8940470
Manufacturer #: 273356S
This is an OEM sourced replacement part used on Briggs and Stratton and Toro equipment. Its purpose is to provide an extra layer of protection from dust and other contaminants. One foam air cleaner fi...
$8.95
Special Order
Puller-flywheel
PartSelect #: PS8905120
Manufacturer #: 19203
This flywheel puller is designed for servicing larger small engines by safely removing tightly seated flywheels without stressing the crankshaft or damaging ignition components. Constructed from heavy...
$33.95
Special Order
Starter Pawl-Ratchet
PartSelect #: PS8942598
Manufacturer #: 281505S
This Genuine OEM ratchet pawl is a critical component designed to engage the recoil starting system with the engine, ensuring smooth and reliable starts. Manufactured from durable plastic, this replac...
$5.95
Special Order
Cap-oil Fill
PartSelect #: PS8945667
Manufacturer #: 281658S
This manufacturer approved replacement part is specially produced for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. It is utilized to keep the oil in the t...
$7.95
Special Order
Common Symptoms of the 123332-0136-E1
[Viewing 2 of 2]Will Not Start
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Cannot pull starter cord out or engine will not turn over
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Mistreated Briggs & Stratton 206 CC Engine on MTD Chipper
Removed tank and drained old gas.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Parts Used:
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Dana from HAMMOND, IN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Wouldn’t start.
I installed a new solenoid starter. Took me a total of 20 minutes. Started right up.
Parts Used:
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Bruce from CARNATION, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
18 of 47 people
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Parts fit like a glove
Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.
Parts Used:
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Wayne from OOLTEWAH, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
2 of 3 people
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