1225 Range - Overview
Models starting with 1225
Click on the best match to narrow your results.
- 1225*0A Roper Range (GAS RANGE)
- 1225*1A Roper Range (GAS RANGE)
- 1225*2A Roper Range (GAS RANGE)
- 1225*3A Roper Range (GAS RANGE)
- 1225^0A Whirlpool Range
- 1225^1A Whirlpool Range
- 1225^2A Whirlpool Range
- 1225^3A Whirlpool Range
- 1225W1A Roper Range (Freestanding, Gas)
- 1225W2A Roper Range (Freestanding, Gas)
- 1225W3A Roper Range (Freestanding, Gas)
Exact Part matches for your search term
[Viewing 2 of 2]
Handle
This part number matches the current model number 1225
PartSelect #: PS12093154
Manufacturer #: 1225
No Longer Available
Refrigerator parts list
This part number matches the current model number 1225
PartSelect #: PS12183770
Manufacturer #: 1225
No Longer Available
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Lid Switch
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
Keep your washer or dryer running safely with this easy-to-install lid or door switch kit. It stops the machine from working when the door is open, helping prevent spills and accidents. Compatible wit...
$32.95
In Stock
Order within the next 12 hrs and your part ships today!
Broil Element
PartSelect #: PS340509
Manufacturer #: 326795
This five loop broil element has a hanger style mount.
No Longer Available
Blower Belt
PartSelect #: PS11743766
Manufacturer #: WP691371
If your dryer isn’t drying clothes like it used to or making strange noises, this blower belt might be the fix. It connects the motor to the blower wheel, helping move air through the drum so clothes ...
$66.79
In Stock
Order within the next 12 hrs and your part ships today!
Bushing-valve Guide
PartSelect #: PS8924945
Manufacturer #: 231218
This genuine item is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for use with engines, generators, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, and snowblowers made by Briggs & Stratton, Toro, Lawn Boy, and Murray...
$25.95
Special Order
Seal-governor Shaft
PartSelect #: PS9063527
Manufacturer #: 692407
The governor shaft seal is sold individually and is made out of plastic. A screwdriver, a set of pliers, and a socket set might all be needed during the installation of this item. Over time this part ...
$13.95
Special Order
Spring-valve
PartSelect #: PS9063088
Manufacturer #: 691605
This authentic hardware is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on lawn and garden equipment. It is the special spring utilized t...
$11.95
Special Order
Common Symptoms of models starting with 1225
[Viewing 4 of 4]Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Will not drain
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Will not agitate
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Won’t Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
Parts Used:
-
Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
31 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
Parts Used:
-
Glen from Plano, TX
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer will agitate, but won't spin
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.
The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.
After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.
Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
Parts Used:
-
Mandie from Lewisville, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
18 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!