This flywheel puller is designed for servicing larger small engines by safely removing tightly seated flywheels without stressing the crankshaft or damaging ignition components. Constructed from heavy...
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as drippin...
This authentic item is supplied directly from the original equipment manufacturer for use with engines, outboard motors, portable generators, snowthrowers, and lawn mowers made by Briggs & Stratton an...
This is an OEM sourced replacement part used on Briggs and Stratton and Toro equipment. Its purpose is to provide an extra layer of protection from dust and other contaminants. One foam air cleaner fi...
It is a genuine OEM sourced replacement component which is specially designed for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. This item fits the crankcas...
This timing key is an OEM direct from Briggs & Stratton. The metal component is compatible with many small engines, and is sold individually. The key secures the shaft in the crankshaft. A wrench is o...
This is a genuine replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with small engines from Briggs & Stratton and Toro. The plastic tube connects to the crankcase and is...
This is an authentic replacement part manufactured for use with Briggs and Stratton small engines. The special intake gasket seals the connection between the breather tube and carburetor. It is recomm...
$6.95
In Stock
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Removed tank and drained old gas. Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner. Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again. Cleaned spark plug electrode. Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls. Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium. Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.
Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.
